Legend has it: revisiting four iconic wines

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      This week we’re going to check in on some of the classics. There are those wineries that are so synonymous with a grape variety or blend that casual wine fans could be forgiven for thinking that the wine style is part of the winery’s actual name—“Antinori Chianti” and such.

      Over the years, these wines become the stuff of legend and so consistent that it can become easy for many of us, myself included, to neglect them in favour of whatever is new and exciting. Let’s take a look at the most current vintage of four icons, practically catching up with old friends, to see how they’re doing.

      Robert Mondavi Winery 2013 Napa Valley Fumé Blanc (Napa Valley, California; $19.99, B.C. Liquor Stores)
      Oh yeah, we’re startin’ off old-school! This 46th vintage of California’s classic take on Sauvignon Blanc continues Robert Mondavi’s mission to make it a fresh and expressive wine. (It was known for making much sweeter fare way back when.) Lifted aromatics of pea shoots, citrus zest, and fresh-shucked oysters lead to intense fruit concentration on the palate with honeydew, lemon curd, and just a touch of lemon-drop hard candy on the finish. I find it just a touch hot and heavy—14.5 percent alcohol will do that—but I do like the lack of any strong pyrazines, which can often give that green-bell-pepper note. It could smother delicate dishes, but whip up a creamy seafood pasta and you’ll be just fine.

      Villa Antinori 2011 Chianti Classico D.O.C.G. Riserva (Chianti, Italy; $34.99, B.C. Liquor Stores)
      This blend of 90 percent Sangiovese with a splash each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon should, in theory, transport you to the heart of Tuscany. Sense of place, or terroir, is said (rightly or wrongly) to be most prevalent in the Old World, and Antinori has been stamping a virtual passport to the place since 1928. I have high expectations that are pretty specific when I pull the cork from this bottle: I should almost be able to write the tasting notes without taking a sip. At the same time, why wouldn’t I want to sip this delicious pour of brambly berry fruit, violets, Italian plum, and raspberry-laden, peppery goodness? With 60 percent French and Hungarian oak aging, it’s weighty enough to tuck into many a meaty dish, but still light enough to keep you wanting more. Textbook Chianti.

      Burrowing Owl 2011 Merlot (Oliver, British Columbia; $30, BOVWine.ca)
      I was pouring four B.C. wines from different wineries at an event a few months back, one of them being Burrowing Owl Merlot. The crowd’s push and elbowing to get a splash of the stuff, more than the other three wines combined, reminded me of how there is still such a strong consumer following even though we’ve gone from 30 B.C. wineries since its inaugural 1997 vintage to over 250 today. What made it a new classic then is what folks still adore about it now: rich and brooding dark fruit on both the nose and palate includes indulgences like cherries jubilee and Black Forest cake, but they hit the brakes before it all becomes too cloying. Clean and bright acidity along with a medium weight can partly be courtesy of a cooler vintage, and that touch of minerality along with a whisper of sage speaks to its South Okanagan home. Still solid after all these years.

      Tommasi 2010 Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico (Valpolicella, Italy; $59.99, B.C. Liquor Stores)
      Keep your toothbrush nearby, because Tommasi’s 2010 edition of its illustrious Amarone looks, smells, tastes, and will stain your teeth purple. The blend of indigenous grapes is partially dried for four months before pressing, and amped up by 30 months of aging in Slavonian oak. There’s no doubt about it, it’s big and boozy (15 percent alcohol) and any more than a glass or two will leave you exhausted—but the wine’s charisma and bold personality are certainly worthy of your table. A mix of Welch’s grape juice and bourbon on the nose becomes slightly port-ish on the palate with blueberries, dried cranberries, and a kiss of balsamic reduction. This wine needs food and that food should be rich as well; think braised meats and strong cheeses.

      I can tell you that if I were at a big dinner where all of these wines were served, there’s nothing that would be better than a refreshing ale afterwards. Beer geeks around town have been flocking to private liquor stores to get their hands on a bottle of R & B Brewing’s Burnt Citrus Fruit Pork Bone Charcoal Filtered Black E.S.B., which the brewery made as part of its limited-edition Chef Series in tandem with chef Robert Belcham of Campagnolo. Yup, the beer’s filtered through charred pork bones and made with scorched citrus fruit, yet it doesn’t taste too gimmicky or weird—I promise. The easy-drinking bitter will, as one would expect, pair well with pork-driven dishes and you can give it a whirl at Campagnolo (1020 Main Street) or Campagnolo Roma (2297 East Hastings Street) to do just that.

      Comments

      2 Comments

      Ed Sadowski

      Mar 5, 2015 at 9:40am

      Slavonian Oak or Slovenian?

      0 0Rating: 0

      Rory Conroy

      Mar 5, 2015 at 1:53pm

      Slavonian oak comes from the historical region of Slavonia, now part of Croatia and Serbia, not to be confused with the country of Slovenia.

      0 0Rating: 0