Naramata Bench: Serendipity Wines lives up to its name

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      Judy Kingston and her daughter Katie O’Kell of Serendipity Winery took circuitous routes into the wine business. O’Kell told the Straight by phone that Kingston was practising law in Toronto when she was in a serious car accident nearly 20 years ago. The resulting memory loss ended her career.

      “She wasn’t ready to retire yet and came out to Naramata on vacation and saw this little apple and cherry orchard for sale,” O’Kell said. “She had one of those sort of epiphany moments, put in an offer, and by the time she landed in Toronto, the place was hers.”

      According to O’Kell, her mother kept a couple of acres of cherries for a few years and replaced the apple trees with vines in 2006. The cherry trees were later taken down to make room for the winery. She said that her mother is also a trained chef and would have loved to have started a restaurant. But because of metal inserted in her knee after the accident, she couldn’t stand in one place for too long.

      “She thought winemaking is one of the closest things to cooking, but you’re moving,” O’Kell said. “You’re still working with flavours and ingredients and being creative.”

      Meanwhile, O’Kell was researching viruses as a therapeutic cure for cancer when she decided to join the business, which sits on a five-hectare site. “I had just finished my thesis,” she said. “I wasn’t expecting to get bit by the winery bug, but I love working with my hands.”

      One of her great pleasures is greeting people in the wine shop who are curious to learn more about her industry. “There is no question that’s too stupid,” O’Kell insisted. “It’s nice to be able to share a little bit of my knowledge with other people. It’s all about educating people and giving them that experience that they’re looking for.”

      Mother and daughter bring different perspectives to the business. For instance, O’Kell’s scientific education has enhanced her understanding of the biology of plants.

      “I’ve got more of a microscopic level of it, whereas my mom, who’s had more training in farming [she studied viticulture and winemaking in B.C. and New Zealand], sees it on a more macroscopic level,” O’Kell said. “So it’s really interesting when we talk about different things we want to do in the vineyard. We’re coming at it from such different approaches.”

      She later laughed as she revealed that she used to be grounded as a teenager by her mom.

      “All of the sudden, she’s my boss,” O’Kell said. “It’s a very different relationship. I like it.”

      O’Kell’s favourite Serendipity wine is the rosé because it’s dry. “I find it really hard to find a dry rosé in the [Okanagan] Valley,” she said. “So it’s been my project that I’ve been experimenting with and changing throughout the years.”

      Signature wine: O’Kell pointed to the winery’s Reserve Serenata, a higher-end Bordeaux blend, before adding that Serendipity’s Sauvignon Blanc is getting better known. “Our Sauv is done more New Zealand–style, so it’s really green and grassy with great fruit notes, really true to the varietal.”

      Fun fact: The winemaker’s name is Bradley Cooper, but he’s not a Hollywood star—at least not yet.

      Address: Serendipity Winery, 990 Debeck Road, Naramata, B.C., 250-486-5290.

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