Exploring Châteauneuf-du-Pape and more in the Southern Rhone Valley

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      Last week we toddled around the northern part of France’s Rhône Valley, an area well known as the mother ship of global Syrah and Viognier (plus a good handful of other varieties). During a recent trip to the region I was taken aback by the quality, breadth, and diversity of the place, and how each appellation had such a distinct character. It would do wine enthusiasts a disservice to paint the whole area with a broad brush.

      This week, we head to the south to dive deeper into a trio of place names you’ll see on labels, taking a look at what sets these appellations apart from one another.

      Rasteau enjoys a Mediterra­nean climate along with vineyards upwards of 200 metres above sea level, with vineyard roots reaching into clay, marl, and sandy soils. The sun shines brightly here, allowing the area’s red grapes to get good and ripe. In fact, you’ll only see red table wines from Rasteau; they must be composed of at least 50 percent Grenache, although the region also produces sweeter, fortified wines from white grapes. That Grenache, usually bolstered by both Syrah and Mourvèdre, makes for berry-driven wines that are big, opulent, and juicy, not quite as soft and elegant as those from other parts of the valley, yet still quite balanced with charm. Think of them as the strong, silent type. A nice thing about Rasteau is you can splash into some without breaking the bank; pick up the Perrin et Fils 2011 L’Andéol for $19.19 at B.C. Liquor Stores.

      Châteauneuf-du-Pape is one of those place names—like Bordeaux or Chianti—that everyone knows, whether they’re into wine or not. So why has it become the stuff of legend? Well, there are plenty of reasons, but part of its fame has to be due to the volume of wine produced; there’s more wine made in Châteauneuf-du-Pape than in the whole northern Rhône.

      Alongside that, there’s plenty of fodder for folks looking for unique regional attributes. A mighty wind known as the mistral blows through the area, which is great for keeping away moisture and all of the negatives it can bring, like mould and mildew, and grapes grown in such dry conditions are always good and ready to soak up the sun. That wind is so intense, for the first time in my life I actually told someone to hold on to their hat and meant it literally. In fact, if the sun isn’t quite cutting enough in some parts of the region, the land is covered by galets—smooth, round stones that retain the daytime heat and radiate that heat back to the vines during the cool evenings.

      Grapewise, there are oh so many: more than a dozen varieties are permitted in the wines. Along with the big-three reds—Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre—you’ll see lesser-known varieties like Cinsault (perfumed!), Counoise (peppery!), and Muscardin (floral!), as well as white grapes like Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. A consistent and dependable go-to is Père Anselme’s La Fiole du Pape, on liquor-store shelves for $38.29. If it’s a special occasion, do spring for Beaucastel’s version at $79.99, a jaw-dropper of a wine.

      A fun fact: in the mid-1950s, there were a bunch of reported UFO sightings in the region, and the municipality, being fiercely protective of its vineyards, passed a law making it illegal for flying saucers to land in area vineyards. The law still exists today; seriously, you can Google it.

      I’m such a fan of drinking pink wines at any time of year there’s no way I can leave out Tavel, an appellation that produces nothing but rosé. Grenache will generally be the base of Tavel wines, but you’ll also see Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and others composing the balance of various blends. A mishmash of soils from quartz and limestone to sandstone and red clay brings crisp minerality to the wines, while the Mediterranean climate allows for optimal grape ripeness.

      Tavel wines usually have more oomph and concentration than the pinks of nearby Provence, but they still finish dry and are extremely food-friendly. Domaine LaFond Roc­Épine, at $21.79, has been my go-to for many years now. While it’s delicious year-round, just a few sips will make your spring even springier.

      There are many great examples of these regional wines at stores all over town—way too many to list here. Whether you’re in B.C. Liquor Stores or private liquor stores, do ask staff for their recommendations—their favourite may just become yours.

      Comments

      1 Comments

      Rachelvonsturmer.com

      May 1, 2015 at 11:12am

      Sounds like a great trip! For rose, I also like the Famille Perrin Tavel ($22 at BC Liquor stores). Cheers!