Deep, dark wine gems from Spain’s Rioja region

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      When it comes to getting the most bang for your buck when buying wine, it’s pretty tough to beat Spain.

      One of the things the country hangs its hat on is the ageability of its wines. It’s not uncommon to see current releases from the 2009 or 2010 vintage, and while most are drinking awesomely now, you can lay ’em down for many more years too.

      If you’re like me, willpower and a lack of discipline won’t let that happen, so this week we’re going to look at a wide array of Spanish wines and see how they’re showing at this very moment. All of the bottles in this week’s column are from Rioja, the highly regarded wine region in northern Spain renowned for deep, dark Tempranillo-heavy blends that beg for carnivorous fare.

      You can find all of them at B.C. Liquor Stores at the prices listed here. Grab the biggest wine glasses you’ve got and keep your toothbrush close by.

      Antaño 2011 Rioja Crianza ($11.29)
      I love when a wine transports me somewhere upon the first sip. This blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo doesn’t take you to a vineyard; instead, you’ll be sitting right beside a crackling campfire among friends and plenty of cheer. Light on its feet for such a rugged blend, the wine abounds with purple fruit, white pepper, and tannins that are fine and well integrated. At 11 bucks, it’s easily gotta be one of the best bargains on liquor-store shelves.

      Muriel 2008 Rioja Reserva ($24.39)
      Everything to do with black-licorice character is in here. Anise, fennel top, and even black Twizzlers are front and centre, rounded out by fresh-roasted coffee beans and a smidge of pepper. Soft and elegant, you can pair it with poultry or pasta and not worry about it being overwhelming.

      Muga 2010 Rioja Reserva ($26.09)
      Muga is a long-time favourite of mine, and the current vintage allows my admiration to continue. Sometimes you hear wine nerds going on about “barnyard” notes in a wine. If you’ve ever wondered what that means, give this guy a swirl in your glass and get a good whiff of it. Horse saddle is right there on top, but it’s rounded out by freshly ground espresso, dark chocolate, and dried plum. The barnyard thing may sound a little odd, but many people enjoy this characteristic in wine, and I’m one of ’em.

      The Invisible Man 2011 Rioja ($21.79)
      The packaging on the Invisible Man is decidedly New World, and the flavour profile follows suit with ripe and up-front purple berry fruit, dark chocolate, super-fine tannins, and juicy character. A far cry from the earthy and barnyard-y Muga mentioned above; think of this as the other end of the flavour spectrum. A good entry to the world of Rioja.

      Herederos del Marqués de Riscal 2009 Rioja Reserva ($25.99)
      Wow, this wine is totally hittin’ its stride right now. With oak, tannin, acid, and alcohol in fine balance, it sings with peppery purple fruit and cloves. Don’t be afraid to put the smallest hint of a chill on this one and have it step up to your summer barbecue. At $25.99, it’s not exactly cheap, but it shows like something around the $40 mark. Quite impressive.

      Campo Viejo 2012 Rioja Tempranillo ($14.79)
      If I were running a wine seminar and wanted attendees to grasp the quintessential elements of the Tempranillo grape variety, I’d pour this. Fresh and fruity tobacco leads into plums and black cherries, the silky tannins are folded in well, and it’s a delight from start to finish.

      Campo Viejo 2009 Rioja Reserva ($17.39)
      This is such a solid red, firm with graphite and iron in all of the showy red fruit, and then it’s softly rounded out by milk chocolate, cherries, and a hint of vanilla. Let’s call it a black forest cake of a wine.

      Marqués de Cáceres 2010 Crianza ($17.39)
      A walk through the forest with wet earth on the nose, dried herbs, and then a splash of balsamic vinegar in the finish. The tannins and acid are right where they should be, cradling the concentrated fruit quite well.

      Vivanco Crianza 2010 Rioja ($19.59)
      Head into the kitchen and check out your spice rack; most of what you see is what you’ll find in this wine. Cloves, allspice, nutmeg, cardamom, and cinnamon come together perfectly around a host of black fruit and plums. Sixteen months in French oak frames it well—think the salty goodness of pulled-pork sandwiches and the like.

      Comments

      4 Comments

      NB

      May 5, 2015 at 3:49pm

      "When it comes to getting the most bang for your buck when buying wine, it’s pretty tough to beat Spain."

      Finally someone writes something true about wine instead of dry humping BC wines. The wines from Spain KILL anything from BC, and they are generally half the price as well.

      BC needs to get real with its price and quality when it comes to red wine.

      Mireille Sauve

      May 6, 2015 at 10:33am

      I love Rioja! Great wines, great value!

      Cellarmaster

      May 6, 2015 at 7:49pm

      No conversation about Rioja is complete without mentioning Lopez de Heredia.

      Rachelvonsturmer.com

      May 7, 2015 at 3:40pm

      Great value in Rioja - I personally love Crianza style with a little more fruit (younger than Reserva and Gran Reserva). Tempranillo can be aromatic like a Pinot Noir, delicious!