Six rosé wines to love, from B.C. to Provence

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      At the end of May, I shared a flock of new rosés with you that are ripe for the season. Another wave of them has crashed on our shores, and since pink wines go so well with summer weather, I’m sharing another round.

      This week’s column can be seen as two flights of three wines. The first trio is a nod to the classically styled rosés out of the Provence region of France. The second is three local takes on pink wine; they’re rather contemporary, left-field pours and simply good fun.

      Coteaux Varois en Provence 2014 L’Opaline Rosé (Provence, France; $19.99, B.C. Liquor Stores)
      While Provençal rosés are often pale in colour, that lightness isn’t reflected on the palate and can dazzle with a plethora of flavours. The aromatics here include a few tufts of cotton candy, but fear not—that’s the only hint of sweetness you’re going to get. A bit of orange zest mingles with the fresh-squeezed juice of mandarin orange in the first sips, echoed by grapefruit pith and lemongrass toward the very long finish. While it’s tempting to serve icy cold, having it come a couple degrees closer to room temperature will make those flavours even more vibrant.

      Château la Tour de l’Évêque 2014 Pétale de Rose (Provence, France; $20.99, B.C. Liquor Stores)
      A perfumed nose of orange blossom and lime zest becomes quite the lush and viscous wine in the mouth. A richness envelops the taste buds, offering an assortment of red fruit such as currants, plums, huckleberries, and cherries, and then a perfect smattering of herbes de Provence. The 13.5 percent alcohol gives it a good bit of weight, finishing off with a tiny spark of heat. This wine begs for a creamy seafood pasta.

      Château Beaulieu 2014 Cot-eaux D’Aix–en-Provence Rosé (Provence, France; $17.99, B.C. Liquor Stores)
      There’s no oak on this wine, but I can’t help noting a hint of cedar wafting out of the glass. That could be coming from the Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, which is in there along with Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre. Besides that cedar, a little jasmine blooms to make the aromatics even prettier, making way for a juicy palate of pomegranate, guava, and pomelo; good regional expression of minerality; and hints of salty sea air.

      JoieFarm 2014 Plein de Vie Brut (Okanagan Valley, B.C.; $18 at the winery)
      A sure sign of summer in Vancouver is a new vintage of the rosé from Naramata’s JoieFarm hitting restaurant wine lists and store shelves; it’s been a perennial favourite for over a decade now. Well, it seems we may be adding a new favourite to the list, as proprietor and winemaker Heidi Noble has released her first sparkling wine, called Plein de Vie Brut, or “full of life” brut. To be honest, I was expecting it to be quite similar to the slightly off-dry, berry-driven classic JoieFarm Rosé, but almost as if one had given it a few spritzes in a SodaStream. Nope, this bottle leans toward the drier end of the spectrum, with a tiny grip of tannin along with all those festive bubbles. Composed of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier, it bursts out of the glass with Turkish delight, wild strawberry, cream soda, cherry Jolly Ranchers, grilled pink grapefruit, and a dry rub of lime leaf on the finish. The good news? It’s only 18 bucks. The bad news? You’ll have to visit the winery in Naramata to purchase it—that’s the only place it’s being sold. Come to think of it, a trip to Naramata in the summertime doesn’t sound bad at all, now does it?

      Laughing Stock Vineyards 2014 Amphora Viognier Roussanne (Okanagan Valley, B.C.; $28.90, Village Liquor Store)
      Sure, technically this isn’t a pink wine—it’s a style often referred to as orange wine, which is the resulting colour when a white wine is made with plenty of skin contact. The grapes in question are Viognier and Roussanne, which winemaker David Enns fermented on the skins for two weeks in a terracotta amphora, an ancient technique that’s seen a small resurgence lately. The squat and sharp 500-millilitre bottle this wine comes in, akin to those found in France’s Jura region, harbours a seriously layered wine with notes of red apple skin, quince, and dried apricot. That extra skin contact provides a good, grippy texture and rich mouthfeel. It’s fascinating stuff, and super-small-batch; only 162 cases were made. In fact, they’re already sold-out at the winery, but you can purchase a bottle at the Village Liquor Store at Park Royal or enjoy this wine at places like AnnaLena, Blue Water Cafe, and Forage.

      Forbidden Fruit 2013 Cher-ysh (Similkameen Valley, B.C.; $19.95, Forbidden Fruit wines website)
      This organic cherry wine from the Similkameen Valley tastes like cherries, as one would expect—which is what makes it so darn delicious. And no, it doesn’t taste like candied cherries, cherry syrup, or Artificial Flavour No. 467. Nope, it tastes like fresh, juicy cherries plucked straight from the tree, with maybe a splash of brandy and roasted hazelnuts thrown in for a little extra oomph.

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