Okanagan's SpierHead and Perseus wineries hit the high-end mark

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      SpierHead and Perseus are two relatively new Okanagan wineries—one in Kelowna, the other in Penticton—that produce high-end wines, so comparison with, say, Black Hills is not amiss. SpierHead takes its name from its location (Spiers Road outside Kelowna), while Perseus, from Greek mythology, is the founder of the Perseid dynasty. Perseus first opened in 2009 as Synergy.

      Here are some recent vintages from both. They’re available at VQA and private wine stores, except as noted, as well as from the wineries’ websites.

      Perseus Gewurztraminer 2012 ($17.99, 349 cases produced)
      This unusual B.C. Gewürz is fresh and fruity, and not at all spicy. An all-around gorgeous white wine, very crisp and delicious.

      Perseus Chardonnay 2011 ($27.99, 85 cases)
      Lush, rich Chardonnay. What oak there may be isn’t very much in evidence. If you like your Chard fruity and full, this is your wine.

      Perseus Syrah Malbec 2011 ($28.99, 206 cases; at the winery shop and on the winery’s website)
      Huge, full, ripe berries and an elaborate, complex finish. The blend is 68 percent Syrah, 23 percent Malbec, six percent Petit Verdot, and three percent Merlot; the alcohol is 14.5 percent. A round and lovely sipping red and a hearty food companion.

      Perseus Merlot 2011 ($21.99, 1,170 cases)
      A fat, rich Merlot. This is textbook Okanagan Merlot, deep and dark. And the price is right for such an intense red. For rich meat dishes, in particular.

      Perseus Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($49.99, 89 cases available; only at the winery shop)
      This is as good a Cab Sauv as there is. It stands up to anything from Napa, or just about anywhere else. The 15.1 percent alcohol really informs the bouquet and the robust taste.

      Perseus Invictus 2010 ($32.99, 585 cases)
      A Meritage in all but name, John Schreiner calls it Perseus’s “flagship wine”. The Bordeaux blend consists of 56 percent Merlot, 29 percent Cab Sauv, nine percent Petit Verdot, four percent Cab Franc, and two percent Malbec; the alcohol is 14.9 percent. Invictus means “unconquerable” in Latin (hence “invincible”), and this is nothing short of a brilliant Meritage-style wine. Grab some today.

      In his must-have book John Schreiner’s Okanagan Wine Tour Guide, in the “My Picks” section under the SpierHead entry, the author recommends “Everything!”

      Spierhead Pursuit 2011 ($24, 490 cases)
      A Bordeaux-style blend (48 percent Merlot, 42 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 10 percent Cabernet Franc), with all grapes coming from Black Sage Road vineyards, near Oliver; barrel-aged for 18 months in all French oak. Sweet-tinged at the front of the palate, deep and dark, with the two Cabernets really coming to the fore. A noble achievement.

      Spierhead Chardonnay 2012 ($23, 225 cases)
      Light and neutral, 30 percent aged in French oak, 70 percent in stainless steel. Crisp and bright, fresh and full of fruit. A real gulping Chard.

      Spierhead Pinot Noir Gentleman Farmer Vineyard 2012 ($30, 97 cases)
      Luscious fruit from one of the winery’s home vineyards. This is a wine for chicken with blue-cheese mayo, omelettes, and pasta salads. It’s the only wine featured here that isn’t finished with a screw cap. It’s well worth the extra effort to get at it: this is one of the finest Pinot Noirs in B.C.

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