When Tim Kozody was hired by the Maple Grill (1967 West Broadway) three years ago, the executive chef had to rethink and relearn how he approached food. Working at a strictly kosher restaurant meant that Kozody didn’t have access to certain types of meat and fish, shellfish was out of the question, and dairy was forbidden on the premises.

“Without butter and cream, my French training went out the window, and I had to discover new ways and recipes without using those things I was so familiar with,” he tells the Georgia Straight during an interview at the restaurant. “I just had an open mind and was ready to do whatever was necessary in the kitchen.”

The challenge of cooking within limits and the unfamiliarity of kosher cuisine were what initially attracted Kozody, who was raised Catholic, to the Maple Grill. After completing culinary school in Alberta, the chef primarily worked in Italian and French restaurants in Calgary and Pitt Meadows before landing in Vancouver. However, kosher chefs and rabbis who supervise the restaurant helped Kozody adapt.

“Kosher cuisine is a process that is completely overviewed by a rabbinical society. Each province has a group of Orthodox Jews who run the specifics for that province,” he says. “In the kitchen, there are some challenges. We have to lock a lot of our fridges, and the mashgiah, who is basically an inspector for the kosher society, comes through randomly three times a day, just to make sure everything is in line.”

What sets the Maple Grill apart from other kosher restaurants is its focus on international flavours.

“Culturally, we don’t just focus on Jewish food. Jewish food is a part of it, but at the same time, we use almost every type of cuisine,” Kozody explains, listing Italian, Spanish, Mexican, and Indian fare as the inspiration for some of his kosher dishes. “It’s a place where families can come, where people who haven’t dined out in a casual-fine-dining restaurant before—which is very likely, because there are not many [kosher ones]—can experience new things.”

Saffron lentil potato cups with winter puttanesca sauce is a dish Kozody created at the restaurant. He says lentils and mushrooms make this vegan recipe earthy and hearty, and the dish lends itself to variation and experimentation. To pair with the Italian flavours, Kozody recommends a glass of Pinot Grigio or Chardonnay.

Tim Kozody’s saffron lentil potato cups with winter Puttanesca sauce

Ingredients

2 Tbsp (30 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
1 shallot, peeled and minced
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
1 pinch saffron threads
2 Tbsp (30 mL) lemon juice
3 Tbsp (45 mL) white wine
½ cup (125 mL) red lentils
2 cups (500 mL) vegetable stock
3 baby Yukon Gold potatoes
1 small bunch Italian parsley, chopped
1 Tbsp (15 mL) bread crumbs
Winter puttanesca sauce (see recipe below)

Method

1. Preheat oven to 350 ° F (180 ° C).
    
2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add shallot and garlic, and sauté 1 minute, until translucent. Stir in saffron threads, lemon juice, and white wine. Cook 2 minutes until liquid has reduced by half, then add lentils, stock, and salt and pepper to taste. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook uncovered for 8 minutes, stirring occasionally.
    
3. Transfer lentil mixture into a bowl and cool in fridge for about 10 minutes.
    
4. Bring a small pot of water to a rolling boil.
    
5. Using a melon baller, hollow out the top of each potato, leaving about a ¼-inch thickness, and discard what you’ve removed. Boil whole potatoes for about 7 minutes, until a knife slides through with ease. Remove from heat and run under cold water to prevent further cooking.
    
6. Remove lentil mixture from fridge. Using a small spoon, stuff each potato. Carefully place potatoes upright on a small roasting tray or cake pan, making sure stuffing does not fall out.
    
7. In a small bowl, mix together parsley and bread crumbs, and sprinkle over top of each potato. Bake in oven for 6 minutes.
    
8. To serve, ladle 2 to 3 spoons of winter puttanesca sauce onto the bottom of a shallow bowl and place lentil potato cups on top.

Winter Puttanesca sauce

2 Tbsp (30 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
12 capers
3 to 4 hedgehog mushrooms, or cremini, portobello, or button mushrooms
1 medium oyster mushroom, pulled into slices
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
3 sprigs thyme, leaves only
3 black olives, pitted and sliced
1 pinch chili flakes
3 Tbsp (45 mL) white wine
6 cherry tomatoes, halved
½ small butternut squash, peeled, cored, and cut into ¼-inch cubes and parboiled for 4 minutes
¼ cup (60 mL) tomato purée
1 tsp (5 mL) fresh oregano, chopped
1 small bunch Italian parsley, chopped

Method

1. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, and sauté capers and mushrooms for 3 minutes, until mushrooms begin to caramelize. Stir in garlic, thyme, olives, and chili flakes. After 1 minute, pour in white wine and deglaze the pan by scraping down the sides and bottom.
    
2. Add tomatoes, squash, and tomato purée. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 7 minutes. Add remaining herbs and salt and pepper to taste.

Yield: 1 serving with sauce left over.

Recipe has not been tested by the Georgia Straight.