Get serious about these Okanagan Merlots

    1 of 1 2 of 1

      I almost don’t want to use the actual word, because I know that once some folks realize this column is about Merlot, they’re going to move along.

      Let’s face it—the noble grape variety that was popularized in Bordeaux and then around the world has a bit of an image problem. Common issues people have with the grape include the impression that it’s boring and one-dimensional, and doesn’t show much character. It certainly didn’t help when the film Sideways came out in 2004, with Paul Giamatti’s character launching into a memorable diatribe against the grape; sales of California Merlot took a hit as a direct result of the film’s popularity.

      Merlot is often a gateway grape to reds, before people move on to Pinot Noirs or Cabernets. Because of that, some take it as a wine for beginners, for those who are not so serious.

      I’m here to tell you that Merlot’s gotten a bad rap. Especially much of what we make in B.C.; there’s a reason it’s our most-planted grape variety.

      You see, our Okanagan Merlots burst with character and even a little pizzazz now and then. I promise this isn’t just hyperbole in favour of the home team. When glaciers moved through the Okanagan thousands of years back, besides being kind enough to leave behind some fantastic lakes, they also left mineral deposits. The influence of these mineral-rich soils can’t be emphasized enough—they make our Rieslings sing and our Pinot Noirs shine, and give a little extra dimension to our Merlots.

      We’re lucky that our short summer is intensely hot so our grapes can ripen well; another upside is our grapes are left with striking acidity, key to a well-balanced wine. The tannins in Merlot can also hold steady due to a phenolic ripeness—the ripening of a grape’s skin and stems—that hasn’t gone too far. This added effect of a shorter ripening season allows our Merlots to have a little more grip and backbone than some of their brethren around the world.

      So while some guffaw—yes, guffaw—at the thought of Merlot being serious wine, our local fare can boast fresh minerality and buoyant acidity, and be well built with balanced tannins.

      Poplar Grove 2010 Merlot ($30 to $35, private liquor stores) is one of the Okanagan Valley’s best examples of the variety. It was a pretty cool vintage in 2010, so they ended up cutting almost two-thirds of bunches from their vines early in the season so that what was left hanging could soak up the full effects of the sun for easier ripening.

      Eighteen months in French oak cradles all of that big currant, raspberry, and plummy fruit wonderfully, adding hints of mocha, tobacco, and clove. This would have been a monster when first bottled, so they did us a solid and kept it to age and develop at the winery for another 18 months. The result is a big, sturdy Merlot with tannins woven through seamlessly. Fire up some Flintstone-sized ribs and go to town.

      Way down in Osoyoos, Chris and Beata Tolley of Moon Curser have been heroes to many a local wine geek for their adventurous lineup. Besides common Okanagan varieties like Syrah and Pinot Noir, they’ve gone off the beaten path with obscure-for-around-here varieties like Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional, and Arneis.

      While all of their wines are recommended, it’s the Merlot that I took a shine to just last week. One of the things that makes a good wine great is when it offers a sense of place, an expression of terroir that can transport you to the vineyard with just one sip.

      Osoyoos is frequently the hottest place in Canada. Literally desert country, sagebrush and cacti grow wild and you have to watch where you step because it’s not unheard of to encounter rattlesnakes. Getting grapes to ripen properly? No problem.

      Moon Curser 2011 Merlot ($25, private wine stores) is loaded with dusty blackberries, currants, and cherries. A lighter style than Poplar Grove’s version, what sets this one apart is a hint of sage both on the nose and on the palate. That sage is what’s gonna transport you to the desert, and it brings a lively freshness to the wine that will hit herb-crusted roast chicken well.

      Merlot being our most-planted grape means there are many more where these came from, but this duo is a good start to making you fall in love all over again.

      Comments

      1 Comments

      Monika

      Sep 23, 2014 at 3:34pm

      You're missing some great ones here: Platinum Bench, Quinta Ferreira, Silver Sage ... My plans to cellar them failed miserably as they were too good not to drink. :)