John Blakeley makes a lighter version of a French goat cheese salad

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      Growing up in France, John Blakeley was raised on a steady diet of cream and butter. Even when he moved to Vancouver 30 years ago, the owner of Bistro Pastis (2153 West 4th Avenue) and Left Bank (751 Denman Street) continued to take pleasure in the building blocks of French cuisine. One of his first jobs here was at the now-closed Café de Paris—a West End institution located where Left Bank is today. The restaurant was known for classic bistro fare such as French onion soup, escargots, braised meats, and steak frites.

      When Blakeley opened his first restaurant, Bistro Pastis, in 1999, locals flocked to the Kitsilano spot for indulgent meals. Two years ago, Blakeley returned to his downtown stomping grounds to launch Le Parisien, which paid tribute to Café de Paris by continuing to dish up bistro favourites.

      Recently, Blakeley closed the restaurant and reopened with a new concept, Left Bank. “It was time to turn the page to a new era,” the restaurateur told the Georgia Straight during an interview. “We wanted to bring to the West End a fresh look at French food. When I say ‘fresh’, it’s not fusion. It’s typical French food but with a bit of a twist.”

      The “twist”, Blakeley explained, means introducing flavours from North African and Asian cuisines. It also includes approaching French cuisine with a more health-conscious attitude.

      “I’ve seen in the city a change in taste, a change in quality,” Blakeley said. “I think people, especially the younger generations, they definitely are more excited and adventurous to try new styles of food, but they are also more aware of where their food comes from.”

      Blakeley still enjoys full-fat traditional sauces like beurre blanc, but he combats their effects on his health by cycling on his days off. He said that his teenage children inspired him to think more about his food choices.

      “I still like the typical classic dishes like coq au vin, but right now, believe it or not, my kids have influenced me to cook a different style of food at home. We are definitely eating healthier. We are definitely eating more grains and having different spices,” he said.

      An example of Blakeley’s lighter approach to French food is “truffles” made from goat cheese and grapes. The savoury, spice-crusted appetizer inspired by the classic salade de chèvre appears on the bar menu at Left Bank. At home, Blakeley enjoys eating the fruit-and-cheese bites as part of a salad.

      “The traditional French salad is to take a goat-cheese log, slice it and bread it, then sear or deep-fry it,” he explained. “Now we’re bringing freshness to it with orange vinaigrette, and the goat cheese is completely different. It’s just rolled with spices and almonds. It’s simple to do.”

      Blakeley said that the salad, which also features oranges and radishes, can be enjoyed as an appetizer or a light meal. To pair with it, he suggests a glass of Sauvignon Blanc to counter the creaminess of the goat cheese.

      John Blakeley’s grape-and-goat-cheese truffle salad with orange vinaigrette

      Ingredients

      ¼ cup (60 mL) slivered almonds, toasted
      1½ Tbsp (22 mL) brown sugar
      1 Tbsp (15 mL) smoked paprika
      5 oz (140 g) goat cheese
      5 medium-sized seedless green grapes
      2 cups (500 mL) mixed salad greens
      2 radishes, thinly sliced
      1 navel orange, peeled and divided into segments
      1 Tbsp (15 mL) fresh dill, roughly chopped
      Orange vinaigrette (see recipe below)

      Method

      1. In a coffee grinder, combine almonds, brown sugar, and paprika. Grind to a powder, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside in a small bowl.
         
      2. Divide cheese into five 1-oz (28 g) portions. Flatten each portion into a disc. Place 1 grape in the centre of 1 cheese disc and, using your fingers, mould the cheese around the grape. Create a uniform, round shape by rolling the truffle between your palms. Then, lightly roll the truffle in the almond mixture until coated. Repeat with remaining grapes.
         
      3. Using a sharp knife, carefully slice each truffle in half.
         
      4. Divide the salad greens, radishes, orange pieces, and dill between 2 plates. Divide truffles and place around the perimeter of the plates. Drizzle with orange vinaigrette.

      Orange vinaigrette

      Ingredients

      Zest of 3 navel oranges
      Juice of 3 navel oranges
      1 shallot, minced
      1 tsp (5 mL) chopped fresh thyme
      1 Tbsp (15 mL) honey
      1 Tbsp (15 mL) red wine vinegar
      1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard
      ½ cup (125 mL) olive oil

      Method

      1. In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients except oil. Add salt to taste.
         
      2. Whisk in oil until smooth.

      Yield: 2 main-course-sized servings.

      Recipe has not been tested by the Georgia Straight.

      John Blakeley demonstrates how to make grape-goat cheese truffles.

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      Comments

      1 Comments

      Wendy Riches

      Oct 25, 2014 at 2:42pm

      I made this salad last night, and it was delicious, turned out just like the photo, and totally impressed our guests! A definite make-again!