They are the local icons of various wine styles. Whether we’re talking about Riesling or Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or Syrah, there are certain wineries that spring to mind as leaders of the pack when it comes to quality.

They are the wines that many of us opt to tuck in a suitcase when travelling abroad, when we want to show the quality of contemporary British Columbian wine.

One of these iconic wines—when one is looking to a red, Bordeaux-styled blend (some sort of combination including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and/or Cabernet Franc)—is undoubtedly the Nota Bene from Black Hills Estate Winery. In fact, I’d argue the wine is so iconic that there are no more than a handful of folks out there who may struggle to actually name the winery that is behind the famed Nota Bene.

That winery, again: Black Hills Estate Winery. It is situated on Black Sage Road just north of Osoyoos in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, where sandy soils—along with the scrubby sagebrush, cacti, and rattlesnakes that are also part of the landscape—remind us that we are, indeed, in the desert.

With a desert climate come hot temperatures and plenty of sunshine, key elements required to properly ripen the heartier red-grape varieties, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, which needs the longest hang time of all the more popular grapes we grow. Cool nights allow the retention of natural acidity in the fruit—and, consequently, the wines—which is integral to a final product that maintains a fine balance.

The 2014 Nota Bene is in the process of being released, and this 16th vintage of the wine continues the remarkable consistency it has carried since the first vintage in 1999 (made by Senka Tennant, now at Naramata’s Terravista Vineyards).

Winemaker Graham Pierce has been at the helm of this ship for the better part of a decade now, and his stewardship continually keeps the course nice and steady. I’ve known the guy fairly well for at least half of that time and had the opportunity to be part of a project when he and another half-dozen prominent B.C. wineries presented their wines at a trade and media tasting in New York City a couple years back.

Although many a guest was pleased with our local aromatic whites, sparkling wines, and Pinot Noirs, as one would imagine, more than a few were caught off-guard by the well-concentrated, rich reds we’re capable of crafting here in the Great White North.

Pour after pour, Pierce impressed even those who were most dubious of our potential, not to mention surprising the crowd with his delightful Carménère, which practically threw some into a tailspin. Not exactly offering the expected icewine to the masses.

The Black Hills 2014 Nota Bene is a blend of 52 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 33 percent Merlot, and 15 percent Cabernet Franc. At 14.9 percent alcohol, it undoubtedly packs a wallop, but in an iron-fist-in-a-velvet-glove kinda way.

On the nose, there are brambly currants, dried thyme, black pepper, and a light dusting of sage. On the palate, it’s somewhat tannic off the bat, as any young release like this is wont to be.

If consuming the wine in the near future, do give it a nice decanting first, and you’ll also get more enjoyment if you put a very slight chill on the wine. In fact, best to always do this with all reds; 10 to 15 minutes in the fridge is perfect.

Now that things have opened up and it has a nice lift to it, the palate is lush with blackberries, blueberries, espresso, cloves, and a touch of black tea. Further sips bring dried plums, savoury meaty notes, and a glint of anise at the very end. It keeps going, with more layers and character with each sip. Enjoyable now, it easily has six to eight years of aging potential.

I spoke with Pierce on the phone recently, and he said that although the 2014 vintage was “ridiculously hot” at times, it “allowed for great extraction and richness, particularly from the Cabernet Sauvignon”. He’s certainly proud of his work, sharing that “it’s definitely a bigger wine, but the elegance and subtleties we want are all there.”

Don’t just take my word for its quality, though. Pierce will be doing a few appearances in Vancouver at the end of the month, offering complimentary tastings of the Nota Bene along with other fresh releases from the winery.

Catch him at 5 p.m. on Tuesday (August 30) at Marquis Wine Cellars (1034 Davie Street), where the 2014 Nota Bene will be available for purchase for $65. Contact the store for more details.