Light-alcohol wine options to keep spirits aloft

Keeping your New Year’s resolutions doesn’t have to mean abstaining from wine altogether, as these lower-alcohol alternatives attest

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      We’re not too far into the new year, so I’m going to assume that many of us are still striving to maintain our resolutions or be a tad more conscious of what we’re eating and drinking. This time of year, I always find myself gravitating toward lower-alcohol wines and beers as I psychologically trick myself into thinking that this will balance out my holiday-time hedonism.

      I find that many people, myself included, don’t always take note of how variations in wine’s alcohol content can affect an evening or the spring in our step the next day. Two glasses of 9-percent Riesling may give a slight lift in spirits, where those same two portions of a 16.5-percent Zinfandel become the equivalent of almost four glasses of the Riesling. One’s spirits may lift, then crash and burn quickly.

      What we have this week is some of the better lower-alcohol options on the market, where—really—you wouldn’t notice unless you glanced at the numbers. Enjoy the following (in moderation, of course) without becoming lethargic or silly, or being in need of a sleep-in the next day.

      Frisk 2013 Prickly Riesling (Victoria, Australia; 9.5 percent, $14.99, B.C. Liquor Stores)
      With so much flavour clocking in at a percentage where many fancy beers hover, you can practically drink this one by the pint. From southern Australia, where Antarctic currents keep evenings nice and cool (preserving the natural acidity of grapes on the vine), comes this higher-altitude Riesling that’s juicy and quaffable, loaded with lime sorbet, rose water, and a kiss of mandarin orange. Off-dry enough to tackle dishes with spicy heat, yet still crisp and fresh enough to impress friends who “don’t like sweet wines”.

       

      Wild Goose 2013 Autumn Gold (Okanagan Valley, B.C.; 12 percent, $19, B.C. Liquor Stores)
      Speaking of natural acidity, our diurnal temperature variation this far north is good at preserving it, so you can enjoy this local, aromatic blend of Gewürztraminer, Riesling, and Pinot Blanc without worrying that it’ll be too rich or heavy. Vintage 2015 will be Wild Goose’s 25th; nice to see they haven’t missed a step in their expression of Okanagan terroir.

      Albet i Noya 2013 Lignum! Blanc (Penedès, Spain; 12.5 percent, $16 to $18, private liquor stores)
      A rather wacky blend of Chardonnay, Xarel·lo, and Sauvignon Blanc from the land where Spanish spar-klings (or Cavas) originate. Steely on the nose, with touches of river rock, white flowers, and fresh lemon zest; it’s not until the first sip that you notice the richer oak notes from its couple of months in-barrel. Those notes provide lushness on the palate while the wine maintains lively minerality, along with banana and mango notes that continue through its long finish. Spotted recently at Crosstown Liquor Store on Abbott Street and Firefly Fine Wines and Ales on Cambie Street.

      Louis Max 2013 Haute Vallée Pinot Noir (southern France; 12.5 percent, $23 to $25, private liquor stores)
      I’ve been asked, “What do you mean by ‘forest floor’ in your tasting notes?” Well, swirl this little number in your glass, take a whiff, and you’ll probably see what I mean. As when taking a walk through a late-autumn forest, you’ll get aromas of twigs, dried leaves, perhaps some stepped-on wild berries, and more. On the palate, this isn’t the lightest, most elegant Pinot, but it’s still a charming, wintery treat with stewed blueberries and cherries, along with hints of port and a slight balsamic note. Liberty Wine Merchants imports this great label, and you can find it at most of their locations.

      La Botera 2012 L’Arnot Negre (Terra Alta, Spain; 13 percent, $14 to $16, private liquor stores)
      If you’re the kind of person who likes their red wines to be juuust a little feral, dark, and leathery with barnyard and smoked-meat notes, this is a wine for you. (I realize that many are not the least bit enticed by that last sentence, though I also know many have perked up!) All of those notes continue onto the palate, along with additional black licorice and spearmint, making this blend of Grenache and Syrah a well-balanced value. I picked up this particular bottle at Crosstown Liquor Store and plan on heading back for more.

      After all this wine, a beer is certainly in order, and hoppy ales continue to be the number one pick of many a beer fan around town. How I love that we can take a break from the common 8-, 9-, and 10-percent ales without taking a break from flavour. A couple of B.C. breweries are working wonders in this field. Central City’s Red Racer India Session Ale (4 percent, $20.95 per 12-pack, B.C. Liquor Stores) has even less alcohol than Coors Light yet manages to dazzle with citrusy, hoppy flair, while Vancouver Island’s Phillips Brewing Company delivers its Bottle Rocket India Session Ale (5 percent, $11.85 per six-pack, B.C. Liquor Stores) at a touch higher of a percentage, if you’re in the mood to float a little higher.

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