There was a time, not too long ago, when the general opinion around these parts was that British Columbian wines weren’t that good.

I’m talking the 1970s and the 1980s, and certainly the years before. It was a time when much of what we were growing was less popular wine-grape species like Vitis labrusca, Vitis riparia, and various hybrids. The whites from these species could be all right, but most reds were downright foxy, musky, and unpleasant.

A replanting of the Okanagan Valley, with the Vitis vinifera species and all of the household names of vinifera grape varieties—like Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Pinot Noir—is when our region really started to click. This led us into the 1990s, and while the quality of our wines improved, there was still a consensus for many years that “Well, the whites are OK, but…”.

Yup, the reds were lagging in quality, but they eventually came around too. I’d venture to say that it’s only over the last 10 to 12 years that they’ve really come into their own. Of course, the journey of different varieties has each come at its own pace.

Merlot quickly became the most-planted red variety in B.C., and it’s followed by Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon in how much we have kickin’ around. We’re starting to see the increases in Cabernet Sauvignon plantings slow down a touch, which makes sense since the late-ripening variety can have its challenges with B.C. having such a short growing season.

Pinot Noir? Oh, Pinot’s doing awesome, and I’m loving the cool-climate styles we’re seeing coming out of the north Okanagan (see 50th Parallel Estate, Tantalus Vineyards, and SpierHead Winery), along with the sweet little Pinot hub of Okanagan Falls; I’m looking at you, Meyer Family Vineyards, Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars, and Liquidity Wines.

I find, though, more often than not when reaching for an Okanagan red, I’m likely to be grabbing a local Syrah or Cabernet Franc. I find both varieties quite charismatic when grown here. In both cases, we seem to combine the New World, fruit-forward style with an Old World, terroir-focused bent.

In fact, while our Cabernet Francs are laudable, with plenty of mineral-driven fruit, I’d like to see ’em a little lighter, less in a Napa style, and more toward France’s Loire Valley. Let our mineral-rich soils, purity of fruit, and natural acidity sing a little louder.

This week, I present three Syrahs and three Cabernet Francs for your sipping pleasure, all of which are offered as evidence that with British Columbian red wines, we’re still heading in the right direction.

Okanagan Crush Pad Narrative 2015 Syrah

($29.90 at the Okanagan Crush Pad website)

Blooming with violets and lilacs, the first sip of this Syrah is a warm handful of fresh earth drenched in the juice of fresh-crushed ripe blackberries, raspberries, and mulberries. Alive with generous acidity and amiably juicy.

Time Estate Winery 2013 Syrah

($35 at the Encore Vineyards website)

If a hotter-climate Shiraz is more your thing, envelop yourself in this ultra-chocolatey robe of purple and black fruit, and drift away with those lovely aromatics of roasted coffee beans, anise, and mint.

Hillside 2013 Syrah

($26.08 at the Hillside Winery website)

If you like your Syrah on the meaty side, then fire up the grill! Carrying flavours of fresh-carved roast beef and dripping with bacon fat, this softer, quaffable Syrah has a nice herbal lift, bringing notes of tomato plant, oregano, and thyme.

Fort Berens 2014 Cabernet Franc

($24.99 at the Fort Berens website)

Much of the fruit in this one comes from the winery’s home estate in Lillooet. There’s significant charred cedar coming through on the nose. In fact, I thought it might be a little too oaky for me, but on the palate it evens out just fine, with roasted red bell pepper, mocha, and a tiny lick of spearmint.

Bench 1775 2013 Cabernet Franc

($27.90 at the Bench 1775 website)

This is a card-carrying, textbook Cabernet Franc that’s basically a humidor loaded up with currants, dark chocolate, violets, and eucalyptus. Plenty of flavour and numerous layers, yet light on its feet at a measly 12.2 percent alcohol. Quite a charmer!

Stag’s Hollow 2013 Cabernet Franc

($24.99 at the Stags Hollow Winery website)

Waves upon waves of red fruit come whooshing out of the bottle: cherries, raspberries, red currants, strawberries, and plums are all shining bright with a chorus of sage and baking spices rounding things out. Stag’s Hollow is increasingly known for playing around with unique (for British Columbia) varieties like Dolcetto and Tempranillo, but do keep an eye on winemaker Dwight Sick’s takes on the classics. He harnesses local terroir damn well.

All of this week’s wines are available direct from the winery and in private stores around Vancouver. If you’re having trouble tracking something down, you can always hit me up via my website.