Just so we understand each other, I’m still something of a purist when it comes to certain wine nomenclature; i.e. port comes from Portugal, so kudos to South Africa’s KWV for calling theirs KWV Paarl Cape Ruby Fortified Wine. Even more kudos for selling it in B.C. through the LDB for an appealing $12.99; it is kept in the Port section so we can readily find it. It’s a lovely, deep, sweet tipple, just fine with pungent creamy cheese but perhaps even better for sweet-fruit desserts. It doesn’t quite have the back-of-the-throat bite some Ports carry, and is mellow and round. Green apples lightly poached in pomegranate syrup would be nice, and don’t disdain it with a well-spiced mutton stew with lots of Mediterranean veggies and seasonings. Really! A French chef in Lisbon taught me that many years ago, and I drag it out of the card file every four or five years or so, always to diners’ delight.