Vincent Van Gogh gin

For the new Vincent Van Gogh gin out of Holland, don't come expecting the original Dutch gin- genever-because this one's the juniper-driven version. Ten botanicals, triple distillation, and a little more alcohol left in the still column-47 percent instead of the 40 we often taste here-yield what the Plymouth people call "Navy strength". There's just a hint of sweetness at the front, a good kick to the taste buds, and even more of a kick to the wallet-$39.99 puts it in the midrange at the LDB-but it's a worthy addition to the freezer, ready to make a fine succession of festive martinis.