Columbia River Gorge and the Oregon coast vie for the most jaw-dropping views

    1 of 7 2 of 7

      During the drive from Portland, Oregon, northwest to Astoria, we pull off the highway in a random town for coffee. After ordering a double espresso at Clatskanie’s Latte Da café, I notice a menu on the counter. The second sandwich listed—a turkey, bacon, and cream cheese number—is called 36 Miles to the Coast.

      “Is it actually 36 miles to the coast from here?” I ask the counter person. She smiles and nods—she’s had this conversation before. “Everyone always asks how far it is to the coast,” she explains. “So we had to make a sandwich.”

      If the goal was to head off the inevitable question, it failed miserably. But the sandwich underscores a point. Named after its own river, Clatskanie lies just a stone’s throw from the mighty Columbia, which forms much of the border between Oregon and Washington. Yet road-trippers are clearly not interested in the Columbia here; they’re eager to get to Astoria, where the river meets the Pacific Ocean. But the Columbia is impressive in its own right, as I had learned exploring the Columbia River Gorge the day before. Could the coast really top its majesty?

      View of the Columbia River Gorge from Vista House at Crown Point.
      Carolyn Ali

      Located about a half-hour drive east of Portland, the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area is an easy day trip from the city. At 129 kilometres long and up to a kilometre deep, the gorge is the only sea-level route through the Cascade Mountain Range.

      A quick jot off Interstate 84 brought us to the Historic Columbia River Highway, a narrow, winding road built in 1913. With its stone guard walls and arching bridges, it’s easy to tell it’s from another era. Then considered an engineering marvel, the 113-kilometre-long road connects panoramic viewpoints, lush forests, and the largest concentration of high waterfalls in North America.

      Crown Point Vista House lies just 18 kilometres from the start of the route, and if we had only gotten that far, the trip would have been worth it. Perched on a sheer cliff more than 200 metres above the river, the house was built as a rest stop and observatory. On a clear day, no view of the ocean could beat this 180-degree panorama of the sapphire-blue river flowing between emerald-green hills dotted with patches of farmland across the river in Washington state.

      As we continued on, there were parks, hiking trails, and five waterfalls to choose from. An easy trail from the parking lot brought us to Bridal Veil Falls, a lovely cascade that made for a tranquil place to take a break. It was a good thing we did: several kilometres down the road when we stopped at Multnomah Falls, the scene was the opposite of tranquil. The second-highest year-round waterfall in the U.S. is a blockbuster tourist attraction, dropping 182 metres down a cliff into a pool framed by a graceful pedestrian bridge. It was indeed impressive, but we didn’t linger, as it was swarmed by sightseers.

      While we could have turned back to Portland from there, we rejoined Interstate 84 and headed east about 45 minutes to Hood River, a port on the Columbia River named for a nearby tributary. Hugging the Columbia, the drive gave a nice perspective on the gorge, and when we exited into the city of Hood River, we felt as if we had exited into a small town in Hawaii.

      The laidback town of Hood River is a mecca for windsurfers and kitesurfers.
      Carolyn Ali

      Because of the high winds channelling down the gorge, Hood River is a windsurfing and kitesurfing mecca. Dozens of colourful sails waved merrily over the water as beginners launched tentatively from a man-made cove and experts ripped and flipped in the open water. The adjacent riverside park looked like a campsite, as those taking a break relaxed next to their boards and tentlike kites. The chilled-out vibe reminded me of a Hawaiian surfer beach, and the atmosphere carried into the town. The excellent nitro brown ale at Double Mountain Brewery, however, reminded me that I was still in Oregon, a state where craft beer reigns supreme.

      I would have loved to stay and explore the Hood River Valley, with its farms, orchards, and wineries, but late afternoon meant it was time to turn back to Portland. The next day, we were scheduled to head west—to the coast.

      The Columbia River meets the ocean near Astoria.
      Carolyn Ali

      The sandwich is accurate. We arrive in Astoria 36 miles from our espresso break, two hours after we left Portland. First stop: the Columbia River Maritime Museum, which is a fantastic introduction to the Pacific Ocean gateway.

      A short film traces the history of the Columbia and explains how the Columbia River Bar—where the ocean and the river meet—is one of the most dangerous marine crossings in the world. Waves here can exceed 12 metres high during winter storms, and shipwrecks have earned the bar the title of “the graveyard of the Pacific”.

      The film and the museum’s exhibits show how boat pilots deal with these extreme conditions. I’m both fascinated and chilled by an audio retelling of a small-craft rescue on the bar, complete with footage of the distress call and the response from the Coast Guard. It’s remarkable how calm the professionals sound throughout the drama, even when it becomes clear things will not end well.

      The fish and chips at Astoria's Bowpicker are indeed worth the wait.
      Carolyn Ali

      For lunch, we head across the street to a cute red-and-white boat parked on dry land, which functions as a takeout restaurant. The tiny galley of Bowpicker Fish & Chips offers the long lineup of people just one dish: battered albacore tuna and fries. We wait for 50 minutes, and as we pay, the customer behind us banters with the cook. “C’mon, what’s the secret to the batter?” he asks. “Nunya,” she responds good-naturedly, adding that others have offered their homes and cars in exchange for her recipe. “Which means, ‘None of ya business’. ”

      The fish is indeed extraordinary, worth the wait, and a steal at five juicy pieces for $10. Afterward, we walk it off, exploring the historic downtown. Dotted with charming art-deco buildings, it’s full of character, as is the entire town with its well-preserved Victorian houses.

      With its bygone-era architecture, Astoria makes a nice stop on the coast.
      Carolyn Ali

      It also has extraordinary views, which we discover after hopping in the car and driving up the steep hills to the Astoria Column. Even without climbing the column’s 164 steps, what we see is straight out of an IMAX helicopter, taking in both river and ocean. It equals yesterday’s view of the gorge, and explains why everybody is eager to get to the coast.

      So does another, even more impressive viewpoint, located about a half-hour drive south at Ecola State Park, en route to Cannon Beach. Here, we spend a good hour gazing out at the ocean as the sun sets, and looking south at the surf rolling in around Cannon Beach’s famous rocky outcroppings, including the iconic Haystack Rock.

      From Ecola State Park, the views south stretch to Cannon Beach.
      Carolyn Ali

      Even after we check in to our hotel, which has a communal patio fronting Cannon Beach, we still can’t stop marvelling at the views. Cannon Beach is so expansive that hundreds of people walking their dogs, playing in the sand, even riding bicycles and horses up and down it don’t even make an impact. All you see is wide-open space; all you breathe is brisk, salty air; and all you hear is silence punctuated by the crash of the surf. It’s a coast that, all at once, makes you remember that you’re alive—because evidently, you’d forgotten.

      No wonder there’s a sandwich named after the journey.

      Follow Carolyn Ali on Twitter @carolynali

      Comments

      1 Comments

      Mary Davis

      Mar 16, 2013 at 11:15am

      When you are in the Columbia River Gorge the next time - head east from Hood River to The Dalles - a very historic town; the end of the Oregon Trail; a gathering place for 10,000 years; home of Fort Dalles Museum - the oldest museum in the State of Oregon - and much more!!