Christine Terpsma: The secret world of B.C. potatoes

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      It’s an activity that for many embodies the best of the West Coast summer: visiting a farmers market. The variety is staggering—we shop for everything from tricoloured carrots and salad greens to specialty garlic and fresh potatoes. It’s fun and convenient to pick up these local goodies, but how does that fresh produce get to the market for us all to enjoy?

      I asked a local farmer to reveal the “secrets” of how his potatoes go from the farm gate to the dinner plate. As it turns out, farmers have a number of decisions to make before they even plant their potato crops. The first is variety. In southwestern B.C., common potato varieties include Kennebec, Warba, Russet, and Fingerling. Kennebecs are commonly made into fresh-cut French fries, found at our favourite restaurants. The Russet is a dense potato that is referred to as a “baker”; it’s primarily made into baked potatoes and frozen French fries.

      The Warba is a “nugget” potato. Interestingly, it is a variety unique to B.C. These potatoes are best consumed fresh, either boiled or roasted. Fingerling potatoes, a separate cultivar (variety) are best roasted. Our farmer tells me that this variety is not grown very extensively on the West Coast. Fingerling potatoes are delicate and need to be harvested by hand—which can be expensive for a grower.

      With so many varieties to choose from, how do farmers select what to plant? The answer lies in the market targeted by the farm operation. Generally, three markets are available to farmers: cooperatives, direct marketing/farmers markets, and processing. Cooperatives, as the name suggests, are businesses owned jointly by farmer members, who market their potatoes collectively. Most people in southwestern B.C. take advantage of direct marketing each summer by visiting a farmers market or produce stand. Farmers who sell their product to processors can expect their potatoes to be combined with others and sold in bulk to food service companies or restaurants.

      Regardless of which market and variety is chosen by farmers, one aspect of the farming is universal: environmental sustainability. Farmland in Metro Vancouver boasts some of the most fertile soils in all of Canada, and farmers must work hard to maintain their soil resources. One way local farmers do this is through planting cover crops. Cover crops are typically varieties of grain that are planted after a summer crop harvest. A potato farmer, for example, might harvest his or her potatoes late in August. As soon as all the potatoes are removed from the field, he or she will plant a spring grain variety, such as barley.

      One might ask: why would a farmer plant a crop just before the weather turns to rain and ice? There are two reasons local farmers plant cover crops. The first is that crops covering the soil act like an umbrella, protecting soil from erosion due to heavy winter rains. In the spring, what remains of the crop can be tilled in to the soil, as a “green manure” in preparation for summer cropping. The second reason is that cover crops provide high-quality wildlife habitat for a diversity of migratory birds. Drive out to Richmond or Delta in the fall and you are bound to see flocks of snow geese feeding on special habitat—cover cropped fields. Through cover cropping, farmers are able to contribute not only to conservation of soil resources, but establish important wildlife habitat in their vegetable fields.

      Who knew there were so many decisions for farmers to make? By buying local produce, you are also investing in your local economy, you are supporting environmental sustainability. Want to know more “secrets” of the potatoes and other local produce? Bring the whole family on September 12 and join us at the 10th anniversary Day at the Farm community event, held at the Westham Island Herb Farm. Hosted by Delta Farmland & Wildlife Trust and Delta farmer Sharon Ellis, the event gives visitors an opportunity to visit a real working farm and learn about agriculture directly from farmers and industry experts. Dig for your own potatoes at the B.C. Fresh Potato Dig, milk a cow, and sample local fare! Visit www.deltafarmland.ca for more details.

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