Organic is the buzzword; we see it and we're off over the cliffs, in the lemming run toward anything that's got to be good for us. I mean, it has to be. It says so, right there on the box, the jar, the tray, the bottle.

Organic--the concept, the products, the hype--is everywhere. It's something of a mixed blessing, isn't it? Like thinking persons everywhere, I have to agree that organically produced stuff is probably better for you than artificially enhanced stuff. The problem is--still, and maybe always--whose definition of organic are we buying? And what does it mean? And who does the checks? And how?

If we find a bottle of Bugravian Cabernet, for instance, that claims to be "certified" organic, who's done the paperwork and what criteria were used for the certification? I assume that's the sort of material that is even now being explored in some depth by people wiser--or with better access to research facilities--than I. If I ever find a satisfactory checklist, I'll pass it along.

According to a one-pager lying about the liquor stores--some of which have special racks of wines considered to be organic--"the simple answer is that it is wine made from organically grown grapes...[and] while only a few wines are marked as organic many producers follow organic procedures but do not apply for certification."

What this means is that in California especially, and also southern France, there are many wines from organic sources that don't find their way to us. But a bigger misconception may be the sulphite business. Back to the LDB notes: "The assumption that organic wines are sulfite-free is simply wrong. Sulfites are a by-product of the fermentation process and are present in all wines."

Furthermore, many winemakers, including some who are producing organic wines, will add small amounts of sulphites to prevent spoilage by bacteria or oxygen. The ones who don't usually make a point of saying so.

It's not hard to find a dozen or more organic wines (even though not all of them state the claim on the label, which is why the special racks help) in LDB stores, and over the past few weeks I've been sampling some.

Whites first. From California, from Fetzer, comes the Bonterra label, certainly taking a leadership position in the organic sweepstakes and well represented by two Mendocino County whites, from the 2002 vintage: a Viognier ($24.99) and a Chardonnay ($22.49).

The Viognier has a gentle touch of oak amid a vast array of fruits. There may be more fragrant, floral Viogniers out there that conform to more traditional taste expectations, but this one is a full, sturdy, well-made wine that serves lots of foods and is fine for solo sipping. It shouldn't be served too cold.

Unlike the Chardonnay, which likes a bit more chill and shows off its barrel-fermenting and -aging with all those Good Humor Man clichés (vanilla, butterscotch, and then the whole fruit salad bowl: grapefruit, apple, lemon, tropical fruit; you could spend all afternoon just trying to pick them out one by one). Grilled fish with fresh herbs and olive oil would be nice. "Lightly herbed pork roast" was another label suggestion, and I just happened to have some in the oven; great combination. An excellent Chardonnay--organic or not--with big fresh fruit, a complex finish, no wimp. And a better deal.

Didn't have much tongue fun with the Italian contender: Villa Teresa Pinot Grigio 2002 ($15.95) from the Venetia shows sharp acid edges from nose through palate, a very pale colour that heralds a pretty pallid taste, and a curious, slightly medicinal aftertaste. I think there may still be the leavings in the back of the fridge.

I had better luck with the French entry. From Chapoutier, of the Braille labels, comes La Ciboise Cí´teaux-du-Tricastin 2002 ($15.30): starting with a pleasing grey-green colour and fresh elegant aromas, then plenty of full, fruity flavours (maybe not all that varietally distinct but most pleasant on the palate). A fair bit classier than the Bonterrans, it was complex, with a long finish, ready and able to stand alongside just about anything you're cooking, grilling, steaming, or chilling for lunch or dinner. Front of the class.

Deep Creek Wine Estate is a new label from Hainle Vineyards, which can add this first to its impressive list of such: it was the first B.C. wine producer to go after the whole organic thing, including certification of vineyards and production methods, years ago. That's paid off in terms of recognition (medals and awards galore) as well as acceptance. (There are sales to match.)

The Deep Creek Pinot Gris 2002 ($17.90 at VQA stores and through www.hainle.com/) delivers a taste the colour would belie: it's big and assertive. Winemaker Tilman Hainle finds "orange blossoms, Muscat, spice, flint, and"--yikes!--"petroleum" amid the elements arrayed against the nose. It works for lightly sauced pastas, Russian eggs, veggie aspics, even a fresh-fruit salad and creamy cheese. A well-structured wine with lovely balance, it's pleasantly round and mellow in the mouth--a gem among British Columbia Pinots Gris and a reasonable value.

There being no pink wines I could find that made any organic claims, the taste buds rested for a couple of days before the reds came out. Five were sampled (including one that purports to be B.C.'s only "zero sulfite wine" currently available), but given restrictions of space those have to wait until next week. The wait'll be worth it.

Ranking the organic whites by taste:

1. Chapoutier La Ciboise

2. Bonterra Chardonnay

3. Deep Creek Pinot Gris and Bonterra Viognier (tie)

Then, by price/value:

1. Chapoutier La Ciboise

2. Deep Creek Pinot Gris

3. Bonterra Chardonnay.