Japanese pop photography colours Shu Uemura

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      Big-in-Japan photographer Mika Ninagawa isn’t a household name in North America, although the gallery that represents her was responsible for launching pop artists Takashi Murakami and Yoshitomo Nara into the cultural stratosphere. But by collaborating with hot cosmetics company Shu Uemura, Ninagawa may very well achieve the same level of recognition in North America as her countrymen.

      To help launch Ninagawa’s colour-packed, limited-edition collection, Singapore-based chief makeup artist Nora Soho recently visited Vancouver, hosting demo sessions for Shu Uemura staff and one-on-one sessions with beauty buffs and industry professionals. As one of only 15 elite artists in the company, Soho helps forecast trends and devise new application techniques. “Shu Uemura always combines art and science, and we always look for young designers to collaborate with,” says Soho, poised to demonstrate the new products at Holt Renfrew (737 Dunsmuir Street). “Mika is a famous photographer in Japan. Her love for nature is evident in the collection, and its colours are clearly inspired by her work.”

      The Mika holiday collection landed at Holt’s this month with a full range of eye shadows, lip-gloss sets, cosmetics brushes, and of course false eyelashes, which Shu Uemura is known for. Soho says that, in terms of trends, “Gemstones, particularly for eyes, are big.” She adds that “beige and peach tones on the skin is key.”

      Soho does see differences in women’s makeup preferences worldwide, particularly between North America and Asia. “Over here, I realize that people really like the smoky-eye look,” she says. “Over there, I try to teach them smoky-eye techniques, but they think it’s too dramatic—and yet they like very colourful makeup!”

      Equally colourful is the packaging of the Mika by Shu Uemura collection. Each product comes in a Kool-Aid–hued bag or box incorporating the photographer’s work. While Ninagawa’s subjects range from fashion and portraits to flowers, goldfish, and nature scenes, her images are often jarringly bright, with pops of colour.


      Hot in Japan, photographer Mika Ninagawa collaborated in full colour with Shu Uemura.

      Similarly, the makeup itself is also bright: the Delicious Rose lip-gloss trio ($42) contains colours named Candy Orange and Candy Pink, and even the false eyelashes are available in purple or red, in addition to black and brown. “Some of the lashes are quite natural, so you can be loud with your eye makeup,” Soho suggests, “while others are louder, so the rest of your makeup should be more natural.”

      In addition, the Adorned Marguerite eye shadow palette ($74) includes bright yellow, pink, blue, purple, green, and two neutral shades. Soho suggests applying one as a main colour over the entire lid, another as a highlight, and a third as eyeliner. She demonstrates on Tatyana Shkityayeva, national marketing manager for Shu Uemura, opening the compact and sweeping lime-green eye shadow across her lids. Next, Soho applies the yellow shade to the inner corners of Shkityayeva’s eyes and on her brow bone, blending carefully. Finally, she grabs the set’s tiny 4F brush and draws a skinny line of purple along the bottom of the eyelid. More definition can be added with black liner layered over the purple, or even a bit of gold as a contour for more warmth.

      The result? “A simple look that’s not too dramatic but definitely wearable,” Soho says.

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