A taste of Naples at Nicli Antica Pizzeria

After taking in the surrealism exhibit at the Vancouver Art Gallery on Saturday, my boyfriend and I decided to indulge ourselves and try out this Nicli Antica Pizzeria (62 E. Cordova) that we had heard so much about.

Gleaming white tables, chairs, and walls dominate the inside of the restaurant, which actually had several tables open when we arrived, around 4:30 pm. Our table was right by the open part of the kitchen where they prepare and bake the pizzas, so we got a great pizza's eye view of the entire process.

During our meal, a staff member cleaned the bench I was sitting on three times, which, while I appreciate his attention to cleanliness, was a tad disruptive. Otherwise, the service was excellent and the staff was very knowledgeable about their menu and able to answer all of our questions. Our waiter even suggested a delicious bottle of white wine, something we were very glad we took his advice on.

For an appetizer, we opted for the Antipasto Misto, a classic mix of cheeses, meats, a goat cheese and tomato salad, pepperonata, and marinated artichokes and baby mushrooms. This was accompanied by a plate of freshly baked bread, similar to what the pizza crusts are made of. I was thrilled by the quality of the goat cheese, which was the creamiest I have ever had, although a bit light on the flavour.

I got the Bianca pizza, which features roasted garlic and onions, extra virgin olive oil, and parmigiano and gorgonzola cheeses. It was good, but I felt (and my dining partner agreed) that the gorgonzola was too strong and easily overwhelmed the more delicate elements of the pizza. My boyfriend got the Capricciosa pizza, which features pomodoro sauce, parmigiano cheese, proscuitto, artichokes, mushrooms, black olives, and basil. It was miles ahead of what you could get from another restaurant or grocery store, even if the pomodoro sauce tasted a little too much like it came from a can.

Our entire meal (an appetizer, two pizzas, and a bottle of wine) came to around $110 after tax. All things considered, I would go back again, but not too often, lest my wallet begin to feel strangely light.

You can follow Jennie Ramstad on Twitter at twitter.com/jennieramstad.