Peek inside and at the menu of Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar

Still papered off to the world, the new Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar at the Sutton Sutton Place Hotel doesn't look like much right now from the outside. But at a media preview this week, I saw inside how the space is being transformed from the previous Fleuri restaurant. (The public opening date is fuzzy, but it should be mid-to-late July.)

With an all-star opening team and a menu with creative tableside flair, Boulevard aims to impress. Here's a preview.

Carolyn Ali

First, the room. Remember the dark, chintzy interior of Fleuri? Gone. Boulevard is all fresh and modern, with light colours and more natural light streaming in. Everything gleams, including the Italian marble at the seated oyster bar and champagne bar. Decorative tile and white oak floors, as well as refurbished antique chandeliers, add character.

A huge wraparound patio is in the works, taking advantage of the hotel's prime people-watching location on Burrard near Robson.

Carolyn Ali

There are two bar areas. The new one features that aforementioned marble; this is where bar manager Justin Taylor creates craft cocktails that highlight local spirits and ingredients. An example is the Van Dusen Sour (being made above), which combines Okanagan Sprits aquavit with elderflower and vanilla liqueurs, lemon, lime, and egg white. The other, darker bar retains the footprint and more old-school atmosphere of the Gerard Lounge, and it concentrates on classic cocktails such as Manhattans.

Carolyn Ali

In the main dining room, the marble oyster bar offers raw oysters (of course) from Sawmill Bay Shellfish Company, plus fresh seafood like razor clams. Robert Skinner (better known as "Oyster Bob") heads up this section, and he's serious about what he does and where he sources: sit down and you'll pick up some good shucking tips. 

Carolyn Ali

Chef Alex Chen's menu also highlights seafood. I tried several dishes as part of the media tasting, including this raw hamachi (above) laced with yuzu and citrus-cured hearts of palm. Yum.

Carolyn Ali

The halibut was perfectly cooked with a Spanish touch of chorizo, mussels, and "paella sauce".

Carolyn Ali

The local uni crostini was a delicious amuse bouche with creamy lardo topping the creamy sea urchin and granny smith apple and dark, sweet vincotto providing contrast.

Carolyn Ali

Uni shows up whimsically with the bread for the table: the butter comes served in a sea-urchin shell.

Carolyn Ali

Attention to detail is also given to presentation. For the tuna tartare, chef Chen wheeled out a marble-accented trolly into the dining room to mix up the dish tableside.

Carolyn Ali

Here's the finished tartare, with seasame oil, scallions and shredded nori. It's served with taro root crisps.

Carolyn Ali

Another impressive dish served tableside is the hay-baked ribeye. This dish must be ordered 48 hours in advance and initially will be available for groups only. The ribeye is crusted with porcini, seared, and then placed in a hay nest in a giant Staub pot with garlic and herbs. The pot is sealed with a rope of dough wrapped around the joint between the lid and the pot to make an airtight seal.

After it's cooked, It's presented (as above) to the table and then...

... carved up all pretty....

Carolyn Ali

...and served with Australian black truffle shavings and morel mushrooms. It's one impressive dish, and the beef is meltingly tender.

As you've probably deduced, Boulevard is a high-end restaurant. Seafood and meat main courses run about $29 to $46; pasta and risotto is about $25, and a burger is $18. Click on the menu below if you're curious what else is on offer.