They call Pinot Noir “the heartbreak grape”. It’s finicky and frustrating to work with, both in the vineyard and in the winery. And yet it’s capable of producing some legendary wines of incredible finesse and elegance, especially in its homeland of Burgundy.

It’s thought to have been growing in France for over 2,000 years, predating even the Roman invasion. It’s safe to say that the high and low quality of this wine is probably greater than that of any of the other important reds. This means you takes your chances: if you can afford some of the legendary Burgundies of a good year—the likes of Pommard or Romanée-Conti—you’ll be richly rewarded for your outlay. If you’re browsing the low-end Pinots, you may be in for a shock. Having said that, there are a few cheapies that truly satisfy, as we shall see.

Pinot Noir is also one of the three essential components of true Champagne (along with Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier). In some parts of the world it is also known as Blauer Spätburgunder, Pineau, Savagnin Noir, and the impossibly vowel-challenged Crni.

A random assortment of Pinot Noirs follows.

Mirassou Pinot Noir of California 2011 ($13.99)
This is easily one of the best red-wine buys in the B.C. LDB: fruity and full with just a hint of something sweet, it suits many, maybe most, palates. It’s full of strawberry tastes—simple and delicious. Like many Pinots, it wants to be served cool, alongside pasta with grilled chicken and Brie baked in buttery puff pastry with dried cranberries and fruit compote.

Foxtrot Pinot Noir 2009 ($54.95 at the winery)
Iconic restaurateur Jack Evrensel scooped up most of this vintage to pour in CinCin and West and his other trendsetting restaurants. It’s one of the best Pinot Noirs yet produced in B.C., and sold quickly when it appeared. Lucky you if you can source some (try the winery directly); it’s a major mouthful.

Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2011 ($24.97)
It has all the important flavour characteristics of good Pinot Noir, being light, fresh, and fruity but full throughout. A fine and versatile food companion, it rewards with a lengthy and palate-coating finish.

Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2011 ($45 at the winery)
No wonder they’ve made this for the family (but are willing to share, for a price). Berry-sweet off the first sip: rich, ripe, and mellow, with a smooth and supple finish. Simply an excellent Pinot and worthy competition for some of the major Burgundy marques.

Van Westen Vineyards 2011 ($37.90 at the winery; 96 cases made)
Made with the support of legendary B.C. winemaker Tom Dibello, this is a fabulous, elegant, sleek wine with intense flavours favouring big ripe Stella cherries and ripe raspberries, with abundant spice and a deep, silky texture. I’m glad I had a bottle—long gone—of this brilliant bit of collaborative B.C. winemaking. May there be more vintages and many of them.

Schloss Reinhartshausen Pinot Noir Dry 2008 ($23.99; specialty listing)
One of the relatively few German Pinot Noirs we see here, this has all the right attributes: good, light fruit with a dry but full finish. An excellent wine for the new, lighter German cuisine, but it will stand up to Debreciner sausage and potato salad, too.

Olivier LeFlaive Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2009 ($24.99; specialty listing)
This was the only Burgundian we could afford this time out, a delightfully light treat with all the flavour characteristics of its more costly compatriots from the region. Delicious, full, and very fruity—an interesting comparison with the Reinhartshausen that preceded it.

Rocky Creek Pinot Noir 2011 ($26 at the winery; 320 cases made)
Something a little unusual: a Vancouver Island Pinot Noir, from a producer whose offerings continue to get better and better with each new vintage. This is a full and abundantly fruity Pinot Noir, soft on entry, then becoming quite assertive in the finish. The winemaker notes that it’s “lightly oaked in French barrels with a touch of American oak”. Lots of plums and cherries in the flavour profile, with just a hint of butterscotch at the end. A treat that’s well worth searching for.

Cono Sur Pinot Noir (Organic) ($15.49)
A very popular Pinot from a famous producer, this wine has established a solid B.C. following in a relatively short time. Bright, full-fruited, delicious, and affordable. For drinking on its own or as a lunch-brunch companion.

Mark West Pinot Noir ($17.99; specialty listing)
Another eminently affordable Californian that really loves major meat. Rio Brazilian Steakhouse (689 Denman Street) has it on their wine list, and it’s ideal with all those meat offerings they bring to your table at dinnertime. Definitely a place for carnivores, and the wine suits it to a T. Rich and robust as befits a meat wine, it’s also good all on its own on the deck, once the sun comes to stay. Like most Pinots, it likes a little bit of a chill: maybe 20 minutes in the fridge before you uncork it.

Belle Glos Meiomi 2011 ($24.99)
A relative newcomer, also from California. Rich and redolent with ripe fruit, it really rewards hearty dinners—think osso buco or bistecca fiorentina. (And don’t we already miss Il Giardino?) A fine example of the successful Californian emulation of the real Burgundian approach to Pinot Noir.