Malbec is Argentina’s proudest and arguably best red-wine export; the B.C. LDB Product Guide lists over 20, from under $10 to over $100. While it’s also widely grown in Bordeaux, it seems to reach its heights in South America. It pairs with anything from seared steak to sweet-and-salty caramel confections. Recently, a box of mostly Argentine labels arrived at my house, primarily in the midpriced range, but without individual prices. I wish people would stop doing that. We do like to compare individual bottle costs in this corner. Another time we’ll compare low- and high-end Argentine Malbecs, just to see.

Michel Torino Cuma Organic Malbec 2012 ($13.99)
The best first. Cuma means “pure and clean” in an ancient language. This wine is perfect with aged cheese, and it’s the best of the box surveyed here today, also the cheapest. Very fruit-forward, smooth and nice and light. As for value, you won’t find much better.

Domaine Bousquet Malbec 2013 ($15.99)
Heady and fabulous. The price is certainly right. Versatile and delicious with all sorts of food. On the subject of versatility, Malbec and blue cheese—especially Tiger Blue out of the Okanagan—is a pairing made in heaven, a match of spectacular delight, as a lovely pre-dessert. Try it and see. Make sure the blue cheese is at room temperature and the Malbec just a teensy bit cool.

Graffigna Centenario Reserve Malbec 2011 ($14.49)
Smooth and lovely, with a gentle touch of spice, complex and surprising flavours all a-tumble on the palate. Suitable for so many different foods, from box noodles to tomato salad.

The Show Malbec 2012 ($18.99)
Sweet, particularly with halvah, and adorned with a raucous, California-style movie-poster label. Very good after 18 months in French oak. It has a touch of sweetness that marries so well with game, ameliorated by the all-organic handling.

Famiglia Bianchi Malbec 2011 ($19.99)
Oak-aged 10 months, very mellow, round and ripe. Not for solo sipping, and definitely a rib-steak wine.

Santa Julia Reserve Malbec 2011 ($14.99)
Deep, intense fruit, herbal finish. Also tasty with blue cheese. The hint of eucalyptus takes some of the tannin out.

Other dark, white, and peachy treats:

Delicato Lodi Bold Vine Old Vine Zinfandel 2012 ($17.99)
Everything around L.A. is Zinfandel and ought to be. Here’s a hearty, robust, fabulous wine, very much in the Merlot model. If you like ’em in the big Merlot style, this is your tipple.

Ornellaia Le Volte Toscana 2010/11 ($34.99)
A thick, treacly Italian red, nice and soft, maybe already gone. It came in as a limited-time offer and is well worth it, if you can still find any. Big and bold and perfect with hearty pasta dishes.

Forbidden Fruit Flirt Spar­kling Peach 2011 ($29.95 at the winery near Keremeos and certain adventuresome indie shops in the city)
Speaking of unaccustomed taste, peach wine may also be new to you. It certainly is new to me. Once you skip past the citric intro at the front of the tongue, it mellows right out and offers ripe peach flavours all along front, back, and sides, to quote an old barbershop direction. Serve it good and cold.

Robert Mondavi Napa Fume Blanc 2010/11 ($19.99)
This is the handiwork of the master; it was Mondavi who “invented” the wine by coining the term for the 50/50 blend in 1969 (others have since taken it up), “to distinguish his unique Sauvignon Blanc from other styles produced at that time in the Napa Valley”. Very refreshing, with bright citrus, melon, floral, and mineral notes. Super fresh.