Craft-brew collaboration at Callister Brewing Company builds deeper bonds with the community

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      It was during a 2012 trip to Houston that the idea of creating a collaborative brewery first crossed the minds of Chris Lay and Diana McKenzie.

      While stopping in for a meal at the now-defunct League of Extraordinary Brewers, a kitchen commissary/brewpub in the Texan city, Lay and McKenzie were struck by the establishment’s beer service. Instead of serving up pints from big-name brands or even local microbreweries, the pub sourced all of its beer from homebrewers in the Houston area.

      “We thought it would be a really great way to engage more of the community and give more access to people looking for experience,” says McKenzie to the Straight as she, Lay, and three other brewers seat themselves around one of Callister Brewing Company’s long wooden tables.

      Callister operates on an unprecedented model that allows four different brands to brew beer under the same roof. Lay is responsible for brewing Callister’s beer, while McKenzie creates the brewery’s handmade sodas and tonics. Three of the tasting room’s 10 taps are dedicated to Callister, while the other seven are shared among up-and-coming breweries Real Cask Ales, Brewery Creek Brewing, and Machine Ales.

      Callister Brewing Company at 1338 Franklin Street, just East of Clark Drive.">
      Callister Brewing Company at 1338 Franklin Street, just East of Clark Drive.
      Amanda Siebert

      “Our idea from the beginning was that we wanted to bring in the wealth of talent that the Vancouver homebrewing scene has, both to create a kind of community hub of brewing but also to create this incubator experience for those that are looking to go further with their brewing careers,” Lay explains.

      He says that as far as the government is concerned, all beer brewed at 1338 Franklin Street is Callister beer, but he allows the additional brewers to brew, name, and brand their beer however they like.

      Each brewer is also a temporary shareholder in the company, allowing them to brew under Callister’s licence. After a one-year term, Lay will search for new startup breweries to incubate.

      The idea began to take hold in 2013, when Lay and McKenzie shared it with fellow members of CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ales) and the Vancouver Homebrewers Association. Adam Chatburn was president of CAMRA at the time and was instantly interested in taking part. His brand, Real Cask Ales, was the first addition to Callister’s lineup.

      “The styles that I want to make are very niche, and as a consequence it wouldn’t be possible to do them at a full brewery myself,” says Chatburn, who began brewing British cask ales in the U.K. at age 15.

      Chester Carey, who is heading up Brewery Creek Liquor Store’s venture into craft brewing, was the second brewer onboard.

      “The styles I focus on are largely Belgian or wild-ferment-styled beers, maybe a little bit more approachable and widespread than Adam’s cask ales, but they’re quite niche,” says Carey. In addition to his culinary and sommelier experience, Carey was the first Canadian to become a certified cicerone (like a sommelier, but with beer).

      Representing Machine Ales are brewers Adam Henderson and Matt Kohlen. Like Carey, Henderson is a certified cicerone. He’s also the owner of Copper & Theory, an international beer-import agency. His brand, Machine Ales, tends to focus on hoppier beers like India pale ales and extra special bitters.

      “We all had a lot of beer-industry and homebrewing experience, so coming in, we knew enough to be dangerous,” says Henderson of the venture.

      Machine Ales on the far left, followed by Callister, Brewery Creek, and Real Cask.
      Amanda Siebert

      Chatburn says that although the initial learning curve was difficult, the overall experience has been positive. “There’s a lot of creativity and freedom that’s been afforded to us,” he says.

      With each brewer focusing on different styles, Lay notes that the risk of overlap at any given time is very low.

      “Everyone is working on two or three beers at once, so we’re all doing what we know. That’s one of those things that regular breweries fall into by trying to hit so many different styles, whereas we’re focusing very intently on our specialties, and as a result, there’s some amazing quality across the board,” he explains. “Once people find us, they love it. Not only is our model new to us, it’s new to the consumer, and that makes it a hidden gem.”

      According to Lay, their primary goal is to sell beer out of the tasting room. Presently, no beer from Callister or any of the incubated breweries is available for purchase at the retail level, although certain brands and styles can be found on tap at a few restaurants and pubs throughout the city.

      As for the impending end of Real Cask, Brewery Creek, and Machine Ales’ first terms? While Chatburn, Carey, and Henderson say they all plan to continue brewing once they leave Callister, Lay is on the lookout for eager homebrewers who have what it takes to be featured on tap at Callister come July.

      “It’s now more of an audition-type role. Bring me your beer and let’s see if you’re any good.”

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