4 wines that pair swimmingly with seafood

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      At a trade lunch at Chambar in downtown Vancouver recently, I was tasting some of the wines from Marlborough, New Zealand’s Brancott Estate with Jim Robertson, the estate’s global ambassador. Upon tasting their 2015 Sauvignon Blanc ($15.99, B.C. Liquor Stores), Robertson said something that has stuck in my head ever since.

      “If it swims in the ocean, clings to a rock, or buries itself in the sand, then this wine should be a perfect match!”

      When I tasted the wine—with its aromatics of salty sea breeze and citrus, followed by flavours that included gooseberry, passion fruit, pomelo, and maybe a glint of jalapeño—I was automatically pickin’ up what he was layin’ down. Some ceviche, oysters, abalone, or crab would absolutely be a treat with this bottle on the table.

      In saying that, let’s look at a small handful of wines that would also fit the bill with those marinecentric critters.

      Dames 2015 White

      (Okanagan Valley, B.C.; $25 to $30, private liquor stores or online)

      Recently, the Straight reported on this British Columbian wine’s charitable efforts: proceeds go to the local chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier, an international philanthropic society whose mandate is “to promote the understanding, appreciation, and knowledge of food, wine, hospitality, nutrition, food technology, and the arts of the table and to support the education and advancement of women in related careers”.

      A blend of 80 percent Pinot Blanc, 10 percent Riesling, and 10 percent Gewürztraminer, the wine is crisp and floral, and carries plenty of citrus and apple notes. When you’re grabbing sushi on the go, this is a wine you should be reaching for.

      Tom Gore 2014 Chardonnay

      (California, $25 to $30, private liquor stores)

      Hey, I love a lively, flinty unoaked Chardonnay as much as the next guy, but sometimes you want some oak (65 percent, in this case) to cradle all of that wonderful fruit. The fruit here is both orchard and stone fruit; apples and pears off the bat give way to peaches and apricots, with maybe a lift of lemon zest on the finish.

      What the oak brings is a pretty toffee note, and then some warm and toasty baking spices like cardamom and nutmeg. A buttery, creamy seafood pasta would hit the spot.

      Clos du Soleil 2014 Estate Reserve White

      (Similkameen Valley, B.C.; $59.90, online)

      Nope, that’s not a typo. This wine is pretty much 60 bucks and it’s from British Columbia, but it’s an incredible, incredible wine. Also, it’s a rarity: the Similkameen Valley–based winery only produced two barrels of the stuff.

      A nod to a classic white Bordeaux, Clos du Soleil’s 2014 Estate Reserve is a blend of 71 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 29 percent Sémillon. Wild-fermented (a six-week process) and then aged in barrel for eight months on its lees, the wine has hardly been meddled with; no fining, no filtering, no heavy-handed intervention.

      The Sauvignon Blanc component is the first wave, loaded with fresh-squeezed lime, herbal notes, and a touch of pink grapefruit, while the Sémillon rounds out the finish with nectarines and white peach. There’s a nice little salinity going on, and a minerality reminiscent of oyster shells.

      Off the bat, the wine could be perceived as a little lean, but once it comes up a couple degrees in temperature, it blooms with ripe fruit and prettiness. It may not be a fish ’n’ chips for lunch kinda wine, but if you’re having some friends over on a Saturday night and laying out a multicourse seafood dinner, this wine will wow ’em—I guarantee it.

      Also, if you find yourself a fan of this wine (and you will), do lay down a couple bottles. It should age rather gracefully.

      Carson 2014 Pinot Noir

      (Okanagan Valley, B.C.; $35 to $40, private liquor stores)

      I’ve shared many glowing accolades for the Pinot Noirs that winemaker Chris Carson makes at his regular gig, as the winemaker at Meyer Family Vineyards in Okanagan Falls. This Pinot Noir is a little different, an eponymous outing made from fruit grown on the Naramata Bench.

      The guy’s charismatic, graceful take on the grape is evident. Plenty of floral and forest floor notes on the nose lead to a palate awash with mulberries, raspberries, and plums, and there’s a distinct minerality happening, too.

      Definitely a wine where further sips bring more character; a second layer of wild mushroom and truffle becomes apparent as you get further into the glass. If you’re grilling salmon or halibut, this wine will totally shine.

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