Vancouver Weekend: We're Thinking....Pasta

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      Need something to do this weekend? Here are five places to find pasta that will leave you wanting more.

      Osteria Savio Volpe, 615 Kingsway

      Didn’t have the pleasure of growing up in a family where Sunday dinners are an undisputed tradition? Well, you’ll sure as hell wish you did after a visit to Savio Volpe, if only for the possibility of a doting nonna who’s as skilled in the kitchen as the restaurant’s chefs. (And judging from what we’ve seen on TV, she totally would be.)

      The Fraser ’hood joint is modeled after an old-school osteria—a fancy word for a no-frills Italian eatery—and the food is just as deliciously unfussy. On the menu? The usual antipasto suspects and surprisingly tasty salads like kale and watermelon-and-tomato, though the star (as expected) is the list of homey, handmade pastas that truly catapults the Atkins diet to abomination status.

      We love the classic spaghetti with wild mushrooms and heirloom tomatoes, the toritiglioni Bolognese, and the juicy, rabbit- and pork-stuffed agnolotti—each served nothing short of al dente on a mismatch of rustic dinnerware that screams funky, not stuffy. The space itself feels like something out of a Wes Anderson film: all angular lines, pared-down woods, and artful prints, plus a few quirky nods to Savio Volpe’s English translation: wise fox.

       

      Besides Lupo's location (inside a repuposed heritage house), its pasta selection is also something to check out.
      Lupo Restaurant + Vinoteca

      Lupo Restaurant + Vinoteca, 869 Hamilton Street

      Lupo has been around so long that your parents probably fell in love there, back when you were but a twinkle in your old man's eye. It was called Villa del Lupo back then, and it was a strictly old-school fine-dining experience, complete with white linen on the tables and a hushed ambiance in the room.

      Its latest incarnation is in the same building—a repurposed heritage house situated between Yaletown and the Granville Entertainment District—but the atmosphere is a little more relaxed. Executive chef Julio Gonzalez Perini's menu is rooted in traditional Italian dishes-including the likes of spaghetti Bolognese and taglierini with wild mushrooms-prepared with fresh, local ingredients. With pasta dishes starting at $18 a plate, a trip to Lupo isn't going to make a huge dent in your bank account.

      Heck, you might even want to treat your parents—you know, for old times' sake.

       

      Ask for Luigi's long waits are almost as well known as its pasta, almost.
      Ask for Luigi/Facebook

      Ask for Luigi, 305 Alexander Street

      After blinking quietly into existence in a remote and eerily quiet corner of Railtown three years ago, Ask for Luigi promptly won the approval of industry-insiders and food-eating civilians who voted it best new restaurant in the Georgia Straight’s 2015 poll.

      Diners are stuffed into a very small (or perhaps very European) wood-paneled space with room for only 34 seats, but intimacy is part of the gestalt, whatever that means. Luigi takes no reservations so go grab a beer at the Alibi Room after you’ve given your name; they’ll text you when it’s time to try on the restaurant’s signature meatballs, the crispy polenta, escargot and watercress, or perhaps the fregola sarda, braised fennel and mussels followed by a chocolate budino.

      Veggies needn’t miss out. The ricotta ravioli, cherry tomatoes and kelp olive tapenade will have you wondering why anyone would possibly want meat in the first place.

       

      Jimoco Café offers tasty Italian fare that is budget-friendly (daily two-for-one pasta specials).
      Tammy Kwan

      Jimoco Café, 1046 Austin Avenue, Coquitlam

      Tucked away in the suburbs of Coquitlam, this local hotspot serves Italian food with a Korean twist. At first glance, the storefront may seem like any other mediocre eatery located in a strip-mall-like location. But when you realize that the significant number of people gathering around its entrance are also lined up for a table inside, you know it’s going to be worth the 45-minute wait.

      When you finally do get a seat inside the simple wooden-themed eatery, be sure to order its two-for-one pasta specials on the menu. Favourites include the linguini soul—seafood (clams, mussels, shrimp, squid, and scallops) in spicy tomato sauce served in a hot plate—a nod to the love for heat in Korean food. Its spaghetti alla carbonara is savoury and creamy, and you’ll want to double up on your order of penne al forno—a baked plate of cheesy goodness.

      We know what you’re thinking: if it’s so good, why don’t people make reservations? They do, except for seating after 5 p.m. on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. So if you’re going to make a trek to this hidden gem and endure the wait, don’t do it on a completely empty stomach.

       

      Guests will find mouth-watering rustic Italian pasta at Campagnolo.
      Campagnolo/Instagram

      Campagnolo, 1020 Main Street

      A generation ago, the stretch of Main Street between the Ivanhoe and the American Hotel looked like someone had done some set dressing for Fear the Walking Dead, the windows on long-shuttered businesses boarded up and doorways filled with mounds of garbage.

      Give the folks of Campagnolo props for having what turned into a game-changing vision for the now-thriving area. The award-winning restaurant isn't out to outfancy the competition:  the hanging designer bulbs are bare, the walls are cinder-block chic, and the tables are chunky and wooden. The low-key approach to the décor makes sense, considering that Campagnolo's emphasis is on keeping things simple, the spot offering rustic Italian dishes at a price you don't have to be Francesco Aquilini to afford.

      But if "simple" makes it sound like the food is something that Chef Boyardee might whip up, it shouldn't, with Campagnolo's tender ravioli dressed up with caramelized zucchini and pistachio, and its cannelloni coming with roasted garlic, smoked chicken, lemon, and ricotta. Those who like pasta done the classic way can opt for spaghetti al pomodoro with tomato sauce, garlic, and basil.

      Afterwards, head next door to the recently opened and excellent Bodega on Main for a sangria nightcap. Or for that old-school feeling, hit the Ivanhoe, which, for all the changes on the 1000-block Main, provides a Barfly-like link to the past.

      Running every Thursday, Vancouver Weekend spotlights five Straight-approved places around the city worth discovering.

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