Splash of Wine: Sangria secrets elevate a summertime staple

Vancouver bar stars share tips on how to make the wine-based cocktail at home

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      If you’ve ever had the chance to visit the Mercat de la Boqueria in Barcelona—the city’s biggest outdoor market, with roots dating back to 1217—you might have found yourself unable to pass by the bustling sangria stall just outside of it. What better way to roam the aisles of so much incredible local food than with an icy glass in hand?

      If we can’t be in Spain right now, at least we can have a taste of it here, with the red- or white-wine-based cocktail made at home or sipped at any number of local establishments that serve it.

      We canvassed a few of the city’s leading restaurant and bar talents who know a thing or two about the beverage. And while you might assume that the cheapest wine is ideal for the drink, there are some caveats to keep in mind.

      “The best wine to use for a traditional sangria is usually a dry red wine,” says Natalie Rivas, co-owner of Bodega on Main. “So, best to choose a wine that is fruity but dry, and has good acidity. You want to select a style that is not too tannic or heavily oaken. You definitely do not need to use an expensive wine when making sangria.

      “Since you are really using the wine as a base, inexpensive wines are actually often better,” she adds. “But in saying that, as a rule of thumb, you don’t want to use a wine in your sangria that you wouldn’t want to drink by itself.”

      Jennifer Crook, corporate beverage manager of the Flying Pig, also recommends using a wine that you enjoy drinking on its own. For a traditional sangria, she’ll turn to a medium-to-full-bodied red with low tannin and little or no oak, like Garnacha or Tempranillo.

      “There’s no need to break the bank here; you can find many great-value Spanish wines at your local wine shop or B.C. Liquor Stores,” Crook says. “For a refreshing white sangria, I would begin with a dry, fruit-forward wine with medium to high acidity, like Albariño or Verdejo. Or have a little fun creating by using your favourite rosé from B.C.”

      Matthew Abrahams, bar manager at the Sandbar, says that tasty budget wines are ideal for sangria, since they tend to lean to the sweeter, milder side.

      “My rule of thumb is to have the flavours complement each other and, in some cases, stay the heck out of the way,” Abrahams says. “If you pick bold flavours, they’ll cut right through the fruit juices and steal the show.”

      Torufuku has come up with creative thirst-quenchers, including the Anniversary Sake Sangria.
      Leila Kwok

      Shaun Layton, co-owner of Como Taperia, believes that dry red wine is the way to go, since the addition of fruit juices, liqueurs, and soda brings on sweetness. “It would be sacrilege to not use a Spanish wine, but don’t go too expensive,” Layton says. “Go for a cheap and dry Spanish red, like a Monastrell or Garnacha.”

      Garnacha would be Dachi co-owner Stephen Whiteside’s pick too, or any other juicy, low-tannin, high-acid red wine. (Dachi has sangria kits, meaning you barely have to lift a finger to make the cocktail at home.)

      Here’s another take: if the body of great sangria is wine, the heart is brandy, according to Jay Jones, bar development leader at JOEY Restaurants. “While somewhat misunderstood and certainly underutilized in cocktail culture, brandy is, in fact, distilled wine, which serves to bolster natural wine character in sangria, while crafting layers of rich, vinous tone and taste,” Jones says.

      “Red wine is traditional in sangria for its broad berry flavours, tannic structure, sultry character, and brooding colour,” he says. “However, white wine has become a contemporary alternative to craft crisp, light sangria with fresh zest and clear disposition.

      The JOEY Mama’s Sangria Kit blends red and white wines together, “balancing the best attributes of both styles” Jones says. “So long as quality wines are in the mix, varietals and origins don’t matter so much. Rustic reds with ripe berry character, and aromatic whites with bright citrus tones and medium acidity are best. Sangria wine doesn’t have to be fancy, just delicious.”

      Kicking the JOEY sangria up a notch is the addition of peach molasses, borrowed from its Real Peach Bellini. Raspberry puree and cranberry, orange, and lemon juices are also included to bolster the ripe and zesty fruit tastes of red and white wine.

      Then there are other creative concoctions. Torafuku is marking its fifth birthday this year with new menu items and thirst-quenchers, including the Anniversary Sake Sangria. Rice koji takes on a faint, sweet flavour for a umami taste; the combination of fresh summer fruits, the fragrance of osmanthus flower syrup, and a splash of white wine create a perfect balance.

      While lemon, orange, lime, and grapefruit make for classic garnishes, the options here are almost endless. “Apricots and peaches for juicy orchard accent, tropical fruits like mango or papaya for exotic treats, or red seedless grapes for the perfect pop are options,” Jones says.  There’s really no limit to garnish creativity, as long as its fresh and fun.”

      Other ideas: fresh herbs from your garden, like shiso (for a nontraditional take, according to Whiteside).

      And as to what to pair with sangria? Our experts point to paella, olives, cheese, conservas, potato chips, nachos, and chicken wings… “On our days off, we’ll keep it simple with things already in our fridge,” Whiteside says. “As long as it’s enjoyed outside, it’ll work for us!”

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