Deli king takes on Feast Tofino, the surf town's ambitious annual “boat to table” food festival

Zane Caplansky of Toronto’s Caplansky’s Deli fame follows love and amazing fare to Canada's West Coast

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      The name Zane Caplansky might not ring a bell for too many Vancouverites, save for those who remember him from his role as a judge on Food Network Canada’s Donut Showdown or his appearances on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives; You Gotta Eat Here!; and Dragons’ Den.

      But in Toronto, he gained a cult following for his smoked meat, kosher dill pickles, and spicy mustard--and for helping save the classic Jewish deli.

      Now, Caplansky and his wife are, for the first time, heading Feast Tofino, one of the most exciting food festivals in the entire country.

      A bit of background: Caplansky’s Deli started in 2008 out as a pop-up (Toronto’s first) and moved to a permanent restaurant on College Street the next year; operations at Toronto Pearson International Airport followed. Amidst all that, Caplansky launched Thunderin’ Thelma, billed as the city's first modern food truck.

      By all accounts, Caplansky was nailing it as a restaurateur. Then, after close to 10 years, he was forced to close the deli’s flagship location due to what he calls a horrible landlord dispute. (The deli at Pearson Airport is still running.)

      He admits it was a a drawn-out, costly process and an overall miserable time. But falling in love has a way of changing things.

      Caplansky met Tofino native Willa Bradshaw at a garden party a few years ago in Toronto, where she studied and worked in medical communications. Her family has deep roots on Vancouver’s West Coast; her dad's birth is the first on record at the Tofino Hospital.

      The pair left eastern Canada for Vancouver Island to be closer to her family, having only officially moved this past March. Caplansky wasn’t looking to take on Feast Tofino, certainly not so soon after changing addresses. However, as a media personality with a food-related radio show in Toronto who’s developing a digital series about food festivals across Canada, he was familiar with the event and couldn’t say no upon learning that its previous administrators had moved on.

      Tofino needs no introduction when it comes to culinary scene,” Caplansky tells the Straight. “Tofino is world-class when it comes to the culinary experience, and its reputation is no longer a hidden secret by any means. I knew what I was getting into.

      “I wanted to keep a low profile for first year and go slow,” he says. “That’s not at all what has happened. I never dared to dream this dream. The idea of calling Tofino home and calling the hospitality industry my community and celebrating being part of that, supporting that, is more fantastic than I could ever imagine.”

      Inclusion is a key theme of this year’s fest, which runs April 26 to May 5. For Caplansky and Bradshaw, inclusivity means involving residents and chefs of Tofino and those from Ucluelet as well. The pair will also bring in chefs from other parts of Canada, to build relationships in hopes the fest will grow.

      The festival is not only a way to drive visitors to the towns that bookend Pacific Rim National Park but also a means to raise the region’s culinary profile nationwide and around the world. Caplansky says there could be satellite events down the road, collaborations with chefs in other cities.  

      This year's Feast Tofino will feature Taste of Tonquin Trail, a new event where chefs will be stationed every few hundred metres along a dense rainforest path.
      Feast Tofino/Instagram.

      Running from April 26 to May 5 are Feast Menus. These are special meals, deals, or promotions at several restaurants, including Black Rock Oceanfront Resort, Heartwood, and Frankie’s Resto-Bar in Ucluelet and Tofino’s Pointe Restaurant at Wickanninish Inn, SoBo, Shelter Restaurant, Summit Bread Company, Rhino Coffee House, Bravocados, and Kuma Tofino, the Common Loaf Bake Shop, and more.

      Then there’s Feast Tofino's signature weekend, from May 3 to 5. That’s when key events take place, including:

      - Bite of the Night (May 3 at Tofino Resort and Marina), a friendly competition among local chefs featuring sustainably caught seafood.

      - Taste of Tonquin Trail (May 4), a first for Feast, where visiting chefs will be stationed along the picturesque path, allowing attendees to learn about the land as well as local ingredients while walking through the rainforest.

      - Long Table Dinner (May 4 at Ocean Village Resort), a six-course meal for 100 with drink pairings overlooking McKenzie beach as the sun sets.

      - Dock Fest (May 5), a free family-friendly gathering at the floating dock by Jamie’s Whaling Station with an arts market (Bradshaw’s maker mom will be on site with her jams and aprons), live music, kids’ activities and games, chef competitions (oyster shucking, cleaning crab, deboning salmon, and the like), and more.

      Even as he’s learning as he goes, Caplansky says can’t wait for Feast and for its future.

      “It’s been a really crazy way to be welcomed to our new community,” Caplansky says. “I can’t say it feels like work. Going face to face and meeting everyone and building this festival has been too much fun.

      “I’m thrilled,” he adds. “I see it as being able to be a cheerleader for the community. It’s a way to celebrate the life of Tofino, the harbour, and everything that comes from the harbour."

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