If Hong Kong had a theme song, it would be “Eye of the Tiger”. Like Rocky Balboa, this city just keeps coming back from the beatings it’s been getting in the last few years, especially the SARS disaster and avian flu. And it’s that amazing determination that makes me have a soft spot for this former British colony.

I lived in Hong Kong both before and after the 1997 handover, so I’ve seen it evolve into a Chinese city—but not without kicking and screaming against bureaucratic blandness. The Special Administrative Region is led by a chief executive, and while the corporate jargon fits Hong Kong, it’s ironic these terms were created by a Communist country. The city is fighting hard to keep its vibrant, cosmopolitan flair, but at the same time its people must speak Putonghua (Mandarin Chinese, China’s official tongue) and accept the renminbi currency to stay in business, as the bulk of their customers are Chinese mainlanders these days.

Although I moved back to Vancouver in 2001, I visit Hong Kong frequently to check up on my former home, and was there this past November.

Alas, the first thing a visitor notices is the pollution, which hides the once-stunning skyline beneath a grimy grey veil. As soon as friends and former colleagues greeted me, they remarked, “The pollution is horrible, isn’t it?” and then ranted about the Hong Kong government not doing much to address the problem.

The real culprit is across the border in Guangdong province, where countless factories spew pollutants into the air that travel southwards to Hong Kong. But the Hong Kong government hasn’t stood up to its Beijing-based master. The result: pollution-index levels that would be off the scale in Vancouver. There are days when you can’t even see the view across Victoria Harbour, one of the city’s most iconic tourist attractions.

But back to the skyline: my favourite building is Jardine House, a tall steel building with circular windows. Built in the early 1970s, it still looks sleek and modern alongside the devilish-looking Bank of China and the HSBC tower in the nearby Central district. Every night the city lights up in Technicolor with a laser show that seems either disco tacky or post–Star Wars cool.

SARS and avian flu have pushed Hong Kong to clean up. The results are impressive. When I lived there, people dropped trash—papers, drinks, Styrofoam takeout boxes ­onto the street if a garbage can wasn’t nearby. But this time I saw pedestrians putting garbage where it belonged—and even picking litter up from the ground and putting it in bins if they missed the first time.

The SARS crisis hit the whole city. No one was immune, from Filipina maids to tycoons. A former colleague recalled: “It was a scary time. You’d get into a cab and wonder if the person who sat in there before had SARS.”

Hong Kong citizens made a concerted effort to live together and look out for each other. You can see the legacy on the subway or Mass Transit Railway platforms. During rush hour, commuters used to stick their elbows out to force themselves onto the train. Not anymore. Now riders politely wait outside until others disembark, making it a more civilized experience.

The Hong Kong economy appears to be bustling, as the Hang Seng index surged past 20,000 points recently, but the streets don’t look as busy as they once did. Overall, the city has become quieter, most noticeably in Lan Kwai Fong, chock full of trendy bars and restaurants that expatriates used to frequent. Many have since returned home or drifted elsewhere to spend their dollars. And because these expats have left, young Chinese Hong Kongers don’t consider the place as hip as they used to.

Hong Kong is facing serious competition from nearby Macao, which has quickly established itself as the Las Vegas of Asia. Casino magnate Steve Wynn and Stanley Ho, the richest man in the former Portuguese colony (according to Forbes magazine), have set up a number of mega hotel casinos similar to those on the Vegas strip. The Sands is already there, and so is Wynn Macau, with the Venetian opening this year, followed by the MGM Grand. The granddaddy of them all is Casino Lisboa, a soaring old orangey-pink hotel casino that is in serious need of a face-lift. There are rumours that Cirque du Soleil is coming too, leaving Hong Kong in the dust when it comes to upscale entertainment.

Hong Kong Disneyland isn’t exactly roping in visitors either. It’s a scaled-down version of the original that is hardly worth checking out—and the high ticket prices haven’t exactly enticed business. The Walt Disney Company partnered with the government, and now officials are quietly admitting that the multimillion-dollar venture is hardly profitable, as 18 months later it’s hardly breaking even.

Despite its many flaws, I do love this city. Even though it seems quieter than it did before 1997, Hong Kong is still humming. The hard-working lower and middle classes keep the city going. Small businesses, from corner laundries to alleyway printing shops, are willing to do just about anything to keep their customers happy; you have to admire their fortitude.

The transportation system is still brilliantly efficient and relatively cheap. Unlike TransLink, which has yet to get its act together to serve the entire Lower Mainland, the MTR lines in Hong Kong cover most of the city, while buses, trams, taxis, and minibuses service the rest of the neighbourhoods. The trick is building tall condos on top of grocery stores, shops, and restaurants, and subway line below.

Each time I return to Hong Kong I must ride the 109-year-old Star Ferry. At the equivalent of about 33 cents Canadian, it’s the cheapest and most scenic way to cross Victoria Harbour. But during my last visit, the terminal in Central closed down, then moved several hundred metres away, making it less convenient for most passengers. While locals are resigned to this change, they did protest by putting up black-and-white photocopied pictures of the ferry terminal nearby, mourning the passing of a landmark.

What I love most about the city is its optimism. Walk the streets, admire the buildings, watch the people, and you can smell the belief that with hard work, anything is possible. That approach worked for Li Ka-shing. Legend has it that decades before he landed at No. 10 on Forbes magazine’s list of the world’s richest people, he was selling plastic flowers in the 1950s here.

I don’t think I’ll ever match Li, but I’d like to think we both admire Hong Kong for its can-do attitude. It’s a city that literally never sleeps, that is constantly looking forward. Its pulsating energy is addictive, and I can’t wait for my next hit. -

ACCESS: Chinese New Year in Hong Kong is a family event that’s become more touristy in recent years. There are many things for visitors to do, including watching an American-style parade, fireworks, and horseracing. The best time to visit is either from October to December or March to April, when temperatures are in the low 20s. Summers are hot and humid.

Macao is only an hour away by high-speed jetfoil. From the Macao Ferry Terminal in Hong Kong’s Shun Tak Centre, a ticket costs the equivalent of about $20 to $25 each way. For more information, see www .discoverhongkong.com/ and www .macautourism.gov.mo/.