The Dragon Roll

Flawless green “scales” of ripe avocado dappled with vivid-orange tobiko and fine russet-red “whiskers” of chili—the Dragon Roll ($11.75) served at Shijo (202–1926 West 4th Avenue) is a handsome, wee creature on a long white platter. Delicious too, especially when you bite into its barbecued-eel and cucumber innards encased in white or, my preference, brown rice.

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