The start of the year is always a busy time for Vancouver chocolate company BETA5 (413 Industrial Avenue). Co-owners Adam Chandler and Jess Rosinski barely had time to recover from the Christmas rush before diving into Valentine’s Day. For four years now, BETA5 has released a new chocolate collection for February 14, and this year’s pink- and red-hued treats ($30 for a box of a dozen) feature six unique flavours.

“There’s an almond, hazelnut, and milk chocolate praline with Pop Rocks folded in, so you get this effervescent popping quality to it. That one has a heartbeat pattern on the outside of its shell,” Chandler says, describing the Sparkling Praline to the Georgia Straight during an interview at BETA5. “Another one we’re doing is sriracha caramel and sesame praline, so this idea of chili and chocolate or something a little bit spicy.”

Chandler graduated from the Northwest Culinary Academy of Vancouver in 2005. While he took both culinary and pastry arts classes, he was drawn to the science and precision required in baking. After making desserts and breads for local hotels, restaurants, and bakeries for two years, Chandler moved to Europe.

“I spent some time in Belgium, France, and Spain, and that’s where I started to really develop a connection with chocolate,” he recalls. “When I came back [to Vancouver], I tried to find a way to work with chocolate more, and when Jess and I decided we wanted to do something for ourselves, chocolate just seemed like a good direction.”

BETA5 launched in late 2011, and over time its offerings have come to include confections, cream-puff pastries, and jarred desserts. It’s best known for its unusual flavours and original chocolate designs.

“The chocolate that we source comes from a small family-owned manufacturer in France, just outside of Paris. They maintain direct relationships with seven different plantations growing cocoa around the world,” Chan­dler says. “We start with the inherent flavour in the chocolate, and then we find other ingredients that might pair well with it. It’s not just about the chocolate, and it’s not just about the infusion; it’s about the marriage of the two. The visual presentation is something we put a lot of effort into, and I think that’s one thing that sets us apart.”

While boxes of Valentine’s chocolates are expected to sell quickly, Chandler assures prospective buyers that there will be something available at BETA5 even for last-minute shoppers on February 14.

For those who would rather make their own sweets at home, Chandler shares his recipe for devil’s food cake below. The chocolate cake is soaked in vanilla-rum syrup and topped with both a dark chocolate crémeux and Chantilly cream.

“The Chantilly is like a whipped cream, whereas the crémeux is more like a pudding or custard in texture,” he explains. “Both of these can easily be made the day before and make the final presentation of the cake impressive.”

To pair with the rich chocolate cake, Chandler suggests a glass of port.

Adam Chandler’s devil’s food cake with vanilla-rum syrup

Ingredients

¾ cup + 1 Tbsp (200 mL) all-purpose flour
⅓ cup (90 mL) unsweetened cocoa powder
½ tsp (2 mL) baking soda
Pinch baking powder
¼ tsp (1 mL) kosher salt
½ cup + 2 Tbsp (155 mL) granulated sugar
1 extra-large egg
Seeds from ½ vanilla bean
⅓ cup (90 mL) mayonnaise
⅓ cup + 2 Tbsp (120 mL) water
Vanilla-rum syrup (see recipe below)
Dark chocolate crémeux (see recipe below)
Dark chocolate Chantilly (see recipe below)
Chocolate shavings for garnish

Method

1. Preheat oven to 325° F (170° C). Grease and flour an 8-inch round pan.
   
   
2. In a large bowl, sift together flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder, and salt.
   
   
3. In another large bowl, using a stand mixer or hand mixer, whip egg, sugar, and vanilla bean seeds on high speed for 5 minutes. Scrape down the bowl to ensure even mixing, and whip for another 5 minutes until pale yellow. Add mayonnaise and whip to combine.
   
   
4. Using a spatula, fold half of the dry ingredients into egg mixture. Once incorporated, add half of the water, stirring to combine. Add remaining dry ingredients followed by remaining water and stir to combine.
   
   
5. Pour cake batter into pan. Bake for 15 minutes or until centre of cake springs back when gently pressed, or a wooden skewer comes out clean.
   
   
6. Cool cake completely before removing from pan. Using a serrated knife, trim top of cake so it is flat and transfer cake onto serving platter. Using a pastry brush, cover cake in vanilla-rum syrup. Using a piping bag fitted with a round tip, pipe concentric circles of chocolate crémeux over entire top of cake. Using a separate piping bag with a round tip, pipe small mounds of chocolate Chantilly on top of the crémeux. Garnish with chocolate shavings. Refrigerate cake until 20 minutes before you’re ready to serve it, then bring it to room temperature.

Vanilla-rum syrup

Ingredients

½ cup (125 mL) water
½ cup + 2 Tbsp (155 mL) granulated sugar
Seeds from 2 vanilla beans
¼ cup (60 mL) dark rum

Method

1. In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, combine water, sugar, and vanilla bean seeds, and bring to a boil.
   
   
2. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature before stirring in rum. Syrup may be stored in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 month.

Dark chocolate cremeux

Ingredients

1 cup (250 mL) whipping cream
1 cup (250 mL) whole milk
10 egg yolks
¼ cup (60 ml) granulated sugar
1½ cups (375 mL) dark chocolate, finely chopped

Method

1. In a medium-sized saucepan over medium heat, combine whipping cream, milk, egg yolks, and sugar, stirring gently until mixture registers 180° F (82° C) on a candy thermometer.
   
   
2. Place chocolate in a small bowl. Remove cream mixture from heat and pour through a fine mesh strainer onto chocolate. Whisk to combine. Let cool, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.

Dark chocolate Chantilly

Ingredients

¾ cup + 3 Tbsp (230 mL) whipping cream
1 Tbsp (15 mL) honey
1½ cups (375 mL) dark chocolate, finely chopped
1¾ cup + 2 Tbsp (465 mL) whipping cream

Method

1. Place chocolate in a small bowl. In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring first measure of whipping cream and honey to a boil. Remove from heat and pour over chocolate. Whisk to combine before whisking in remaining measure of whipping cream. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
   
   
2. When ready to ice cake, remove chocolate Chantilly from fridge. Using a stand mixer or hand mixer on medium speed, whip until medium peaks are formed.

Yield: 1 8-inch round cake.

Recipe has not been tested by the Georgia Straight.