The myth persists that vodka is made from potatoes. The truth is, very little of it is: vodka’s made from whatever is cheap and readily at hand—grain, mostly. Luksusowa Potato Vodka bucks the trend, and it’s one worth bucking. At $22.50, it’s cheaper than most of the other Polish ones (and all of the Russians) and more satisfying than the lot. It’s unctuous and full, big and bold on the tongue, and silky smooth sliding down. (Whatever else the stated triple distilling may do for it, it sure makes it triple smooth.) The over-tall bottle is a bit awkward and I’ve had trouble twice getting the metal cap off, but what’s inside is sheer lovely luxury. Hail the noble potato.