Beer Made From Scratch is the operating slogan of Nanaimo-based Fat Cat Brewery, and those scratched beers are proving to be little short of amazing. Last year was the first for Bad Cat Barley Wine, cask-conditioned in oak wine barrels for super-smoothness. This year’s version was mellowed in Kentucky bourbon barrels, clocking in at 12 percent alcohol and priced at $6.75 for a 650-millilitre bottle. Brace yourself for a huge hit of flavour: rich, hale, and round, with just a hint of sweet maltiness. The brew master suggests serving it in a brandy snifter for optimal appreciation. (A nice round tumbler works fine.) Might be a touch too elegant for olive-rosemary bread and ancient Cheddar, crumbly chorizo and balsamic-marinated cipollini onions, but that’s what’s on my plate. It’s seasonal and scarce, so get it while it’s gettable.