Last month, in a sunlit yard in East Vancouver, a group of people met for what one guest later called “the dreamiest dinner.” Those who went—which is to say, the lucky 36 who even knew about this semi-secret gathering—were treated to an experience that was simultaneously highly curated and breezily effortless.

Amid sips of natural wine and craft beer, diners were treated to a five-course menu that featured zucchini carpaccio, albacore tuna, and lemony risotto. The meal was prepared by local chef Paige Manzie of Chili P sauce; the seafood was caught and supplied by Mitch’s Catch. The table setting looked art directed, with nasturtiums coloured to match the wine, and oyster shell seat placement tags. Photos from the event give LA dinner party vibes and would not look out of place in an issue of Food & Wine.

But this was in Vancouver—a city perennially accused of being no fun.

This particular engagement was the first installment of Pass the Peas, a new food-focused social club founded by the husband and wife duo of Allie Weinstock and Jake Steiner. And it’s perhaps evidence that if people are willing to venture out of their comfort zone, there is, indeed, plenty of fun to be had in our local food scene.

Members of the restaurant industry certainly believe so. Many chefs and owners who the Straight spoke to describe a restaurant community that, despite labour and costs challenges, is still regularly hosting unique and unconventional experiences for anyone willing to take a chance. They say the alternative social dining scene is not new, however—it’s just changed.

More than a decade ago, patrons clamoured for seats at pioneering secret supper clubs like The Hunger Hut, 12B, and No Fixed Address (NFA). Chefs cooked at their homes. Guests brought their own booze. Everyone had a great time.

“They were really fun places for those who knew about it,” explains Justin Tisdall, co-owner of Juke Fried Chicken. “And then others caught on, and so a few other places started doing it. But then the city cracked down.”

While many clubs were ending service, though, others like Swallow Tail were just getting started. Helmed by chef Robin Kort, Swallow Tail has been operating for nearly 17 years. Its offerings now include dinners, catering, and foraging field trips.

For diners, pop-up dinners are a gateway to one-of-a-kind experiences; but the benefits flow both ways, Kort notes. For chefs, they can be a pathway to bigger ventures—a first restaurant, a storefront, or notoriety—down the line.

“[Bardia Ilbeiggi, chef and owner of Delara] did a bunch of pop-ups with Swallow Tail before he opened his restaurant on 4th,” Kort explains. “And it’s smart, right? It’s like: ‘What do people actually like?’ Get their feedback, determine your set menu first, and then take the risk of finding somewhere to lease and all that sort of stuff.”

Providing a platform for cooks who do not have their own space is also important to Weinstock and Steiner of Pass the Peas. “Our goal really is to partner with chefs, and give them a pop-up space if they don’t have a retail footprint,” Weinstock shares. “So it’s really an opportunity for them to connect with the community and share their food.”

Other chefs known for their bespoke options include Dez Lo, Zach Cross Nadeau of Ginger & Salt Dining Co., Billy Nguyen, and Mark Singson. But chefs are not the only ones inviting people into their homes or friends’ kitchens for covert affairs. Andrew Kwong, a well-known bartender at Peruvian hotspot Suyo, hosts people in his apartment for amaro cocktails. He invites up to 16 people at a time—mostly friends or Suyo patrons he knows.

“I’m also a little secretive about it,” he says, “not because I like speakeasies, but because, you know, I’m a little more cautious about who I’m inviting into my home.”

Who gets to enjoy Vancouver’s alternative dining ecosystem is a simmering topic. Some say the secret to success lies in striking a balance between exclusivity and accessibility. “It depends how big or how unknown you want it to be,” argues Juke’s Tisdall. “I’d say first thing, sometimes it’s great to just be niche, right? Keep it small, keep it intimate. Keep it desirable for the people who want to be a part of it.”

Over the years, Kort has seen an evolution that’s making events more public.

“Before, it was definitely just word of mouth, and then our members list,” she says. “But now it’s Instagram. Now you search for something like ‘YVR foodie’ and maybe you’ll get lucky.” 

Eager diners had no trouble discovering the first Pass the Peas. Through word of mouth and posts to barely 200 followers, it sold out in under 48 hours. “There’s such hunger and appetite from the community to have events like this to attend,” Weinstock says.

Tisdall agrees. And to anyone who still believes Vancouver is lacking fun food events, his opinion is clear: “I think you’re not looking hard enough.”