Even though he’s never been to North America before, Petr Janí­k has clearly taken the time to familiarize himself with the competition. Ask him for an honest assessment of the big-name beers on these shores, and the Czech Republic-based brew ­master for Pilsner Urquell is quick to respond.

“I have tried Miller Genuine Draft and also Labatt’s,” says the genial 50-year-old, interviewed at Stella’s Tap and Tapas Bar on Commercial Drive. “Labatt’s is very much like a European beer, but Miller is, for us, very much like a lady beer. I brought it home and my daughters liked it because it is sweet. But in Czech, we like our beer a little more bitter.”

That’s a tip-off that Pilsner Urquell offers something different from the taste that North Americans are accustomed to. Funnily enough, the European classic is arguably the most imitated beer in the world. Whether you’re talking Beck’s, Labatt Blue, or that B.C. favourite with the bunnies, train, and tepee on the label, they can all be traced back to Pilsner Urquell, which translates as “pilsner from the original source”.

“There are a lot of kinds of beers—white and stouts and ales,” Janí­k says. “But pilsner is the most popular. About 85 percent of all beers sold are pilsners. And the name pilsner comes from Pilsner Urquell. Plze? is the name of a town in Czech. And that’s where Pilsner Urquell gets its name from.”

The brand dates back to 1842, when Bavarian brewmaster Josef Groll set up in Plze?.

“There were a lot of small brewers back then, and the quality was bad,” Janí­k relates. “The owners of these breweries came to an agreement to build and open a new brewery with good equipment to produce good beer. They invited Josef Groll to Plze?, and he brought with him new technology.”

In many ways, Pilsner Urquell, as it would come to be known, revolutionized brewing.

Right from the time beer was invented over 10,000 years ago, it was almost always produced in open vats, with the fermentation taking place on top. Back in the day—that is before technology eliminated most of the guesswork—that left beer susceptible to things like the yeast that’s naturally present in the air. Recognizing that temperature fluctuations also made the process more difficult to control, Groll went underground, into the caves below Plze?. The cooler subterranean temperatures caused the yeast used in the brewing process to drop to the bottom of the vats, where it tended to remain stable. Thus, bottom-fermented beer was born. What gave Pilsner Urquell its distinctive taste was Bohemian Saaz hops and the region’s soft water. Other innovations included Groll’s decision to heat the vats by direct flame (rather than the standard steam) during the mashing process. The result was a beer that, right from the beginning, was hailed for its strongly hopped, alelike fruit undertones, and clean, caramelized finish.

While it’s a big reason why the Czech Republic is generally considered a mecca for beer connoisseurs, Pilsner Urquell isn’t the most popular beer in its home country. “It is not the beer with the highest consumption levels, but it is the most famous,” Janí­k says proudly. “Pilsner Urquell is considered our national brand.”

The brewmaster, who was in town to speak at the recent Hopscotch Festival, has a theory as to why Pilsner Urquell has proven popular with North Americans who want a beer that stands out from both domestic and imports.

“Pilsner Urquell is a good experience for North American drinkers,” he suggests. “It’s completely different from standard beers like Miller and Budweiser because of its bitterness.”

In what will come as excellent news to anyone who likes to hoist a few, Janí­k also contends that Pilsner Urquell is not only good but also good for you.

“This beer is a healthy drink if you’re having two a day,” he says. “It contains a lot of vitamins—mainly group B—and minerals. And Pils contains significantly lower alcohol compared to other lagers. Standard lagers are about 5 percent, and Pils is 4.4 percent.”

As for what food the Czech Republic’s most-known beer might pair up with, that’s where Janí­k finally lacks for an opinion. When he’s ready for a Pilser Urquell, he doesn’t bother with food, preferring instead to head down to his local where he says it goes best with nothing but a glass.

“We drink beer in the evenings,” he says with a laugh. “We go to the pub with friends, and then we drink. I don’t drink beer every day, but when we are at the pub we drink a half-litre. Lots of people drink more. And it is possible to drink less, but that is only if you are a lady.”