Sushi chef elevates summertime seafood offerings at Ancora Waterfront Dining and Patio

Japanese-born Yoshi Tabo has some serious culinary chops

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      Now that the sun is sparkling off the waters of False Creek, Ancora Waterfront Dining and Patio has launched a new summertime menu to suit its seawall-side patio. Executive chef Ricardo Valverde continues to blend Peruvian and Japanese cuisine with West Coast ingredients.

      Take the carne cruda picada, which has beef tartare, aji panca (a smoky Peruvian pepper), and spring onions all nestled atop sourdough and finished with quail egg. Anticucho is a Peruvian classic for which Valverde uses grilled octopus, miso panco, smoked potato espuma (foam), and pico de gallo.

      The list goes on, but there’s another component of the menu that shines in its own right, and that is the raw seafood prepared by Ancora's sushi chef, Yoshi Tabo.

      Originally from the port city of Tsruga in Japan’s Fuki Prefecture, Tabo started building his reputation as a highly skilled sushi chef in Canada after moving to Vancouver in 1972, which followed six years of training. He received a licence to prepare fugu, the legendary poisonous blowfish, and he is also a certified Japanese-specialty chef.

      Besides other roles on the West Coast, Tabo co-owned and served as head of various local kitchens, including Shijo (from 1987 to 1996) and Yoshi (1996 to 2002).
      Tabo was also responsible for building the raw bar and sushi offerings during his tenure at the Blue Water Cafe and during his time as Master Sushi Chef at Ki Modern Japanese.

      Known in the industry as one of the best “cut-men” due to his consistency, precision, and technical execution, Tabo has also mastered Kyoto-style technique of turning a 10-kilogram block of big-eye tuna into perfectly shaped and even sashimi in minutes.

      For summer, he’s introduced the Ancora Glacier, a magnificent platter of sustainable seafood. While specific fish and seafood items may change depending on what’s fresh, in season, and available, the plate currently features oysters, ceviche and tartare, crab causa (a terrine with spiced potato and avocado), poached prawns, a sashimi selection, Salt Spring Island mussel Peruvian escabeche (a pickled mixture that includes onions, vinegar, and honey), and more. (It's $72 for two people or $135 for four.)

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